Hamburg, Germany's northern-most metropolis, is a city of superlatives.

Building on a nearly millennium-old history of trading, the thriving port is one of the most important in Europe.

Along with its proximity to two seas, its two lakes, three rivers and countless canals, Hamburg has more bridges than Amsterdam and Venice put together.

Although these are impressive statistics, there is something else that makes a visit to this place even more interesting: Hamburg is the richest city of Germany, with more millionaires living there than in any other German city.

That means plenty of excellent shopping, superlative restaurants, vibrant cultural events and gorgeous houses to marvel at, besides, of course, the see-to-be-seen scene at the numerous cafés across the city from where you can people-watch and display your new purchases at the same time.

Ultimate destination

While Hamburg's city centre displays a host of top architectural sights in its elegant townhouses and villas, you know you have “arrived'' when your address either mentions the Elbchaussee or Blankenese.

The Elbchaussee is the road connecting Hamburg to the suburb of Blankenese. But to say “road'' is to call Chanel a clothes shop — an unforgivable understatement.

The Elbchaussee hugs the Elbe River and allows tantalising vistas of the glittering water and huge ships, which use the river as a thoroughfare between the North Sea and Hamburg's port. But even more enchanting are the glimpses — from behind trees or across the park (which people residing there call their garden) — of the massive villas that reflect just how wealthy this city is.

Although some of the villas have been converted into business headquarters, many are still privately owned and so magnificent they make concentrating on the road — sorry, the Elbchaussee — a little difficult.

About 15km west of the suburb of Blankenese lies one of the two mountain ridges to be found in and around Hamburg — and even this is below 100 metres in height.

Clinging to the steep hillside that leads down to the river, some 4,864 steps connect the small and large houses, where owners have made the most of the premium space and the inviting views of the river in the front and the lush farmland behind.

Known as the staircase-district for obvious reasons, the village of Blankenese was separate from Hamburg — even under Danish rule for a while — until 1938.

But before it was promoted to being a suburb of wealthy Hamburg, the city's merchants realised that the fishermen were sitting on some prime real estate and started building their stately villas in the vicinity of the village for the tranquillity, stunning views, fresh air and the inviting small beaches along the river.

Once you have passed the steps that weave through labyrinthine lanes and alleys that exude an almost Mediterranean atmosphere, you will come across the path along the river that bustles with people sitting and enjoying the parks, cafés and restaurants.

Another sight that greets you is children feeding the ducks or waving to the large ships tooting a welcome.
In Germany, the emphasis is on having coffee and knowing a good restaurant while enjoying the outdoors — a trend even more popular in Blankenese.

A great restaurant

One of the most attractive places there is the Strandhotel, a beach hotel dating back to 1902.

Once a private villa, it is now an excellent restaurant serving the freshest fish and homemade cakes, along with one of the best views of the river and its sandy islands in midstream.

Right in front of the hotel is the landing quay for the ferries and waterbuses that commute between the city centre and Blankenese.

They are a fun and cheap way to squeeze a little river cruise in your visit.

Once you have valiantly climbed back the hill on foot or succumbed to modern transport, such as the mall train or the minibus, you will reach the Blankeneser Hauptstrasse, or the high street, which is an upmarket area for excellent delicatessen shops, boutiques and charming cafés.

The weekly market on the village square offers fresh delights and useful knick-knacks three times a week, plus freshly prepared food from stalls.

If you are hankering for a little history, the nearby doll museum is a quirky way to spend an hour or two.

While Hamburg itself is a destination that will engage you, Blankenese makes for a charming day out to experience the city and its people away from the tourists.

But remember to bring your accountant's phone number in case you fall in love with one of those little white villas.

— Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey is a UAE-based freelance writer

By Uirike Lemmin-Woofrey, Special to Explore

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