Letter from Lahore: Games of war and peace at Wagah

The Wagah border, the sole crossing point between Pakistan and India for the moment, until rail and air services resume, has been witnessing a sudden flurry of activity.

Almost each day sees a contingent of media men and press photographers flocking off to the border, as Indian parliamentarians, children on a 'peace' visit or others thrust into the limelight as a result of the dramatic thaw in relations between India and Pakistan bus their way across the newly painted frontier checkpoints. These outposts had for over a year, since February 2002, stood desolate – the Rangers wielding their guns the only human presence there. Today, as children sing songs welcoming guests, and girls garland distinguished visitors, the spirit of the place has changed dramatically.

On no occasion was this more apparent than on Thursday night, as a Pakistani delegation of 20, including 12 parliamentarians, crossed over the border to join Kuldip Nayyer and other Indian peace activists light candles to mark the Independence Day of both nations, and send out a message of harmony.

With tourist authorities planning an elaborate resort and park at Wagah, it is clear that they can see ahead to a time of still greater harmony, when people travelling across the frontier from either side can break journey at the rest house. Or families simply visit the park for a day's outing.

However, for all the change in air at Wagah, it is unfortunate that the spirit of the daily 'Beating the Retreat' ceremony remains unchanged. At sundown each day, soldiers on both sides of the divide begin a typically military ritual culminating in the lowering of the two national flags.
People on both sides of the border, including children on school trips and families on picnics, watch the 'show'. What is perhaps unique about this display is the hostility that underlies it. Rangers on the Pakistan side, and their Indian counterparts across the frontier, appear to have made a deliberate show of belligerence a part of this ceremony. Gestures such as the showing of the sole of the boot across the fence, snarls and fist shakes are apparently a part of the entertainment – cheered on by the audiences.

This curious twist on a ceremony that by nature should be strictly military-like is perhaps a unique addition. Given the improvement in ties, some believe the shows of aggression have been toned down – but they are still there. And, if a true environment of friendship is to be built, such theatrics will need to be done away with, along with the images of charged up visitors cheering each angry exchange – as though they were witnessing a particularly bloodthirsty bout between ancient gladiators.

It is as such clear that along with the Track 2 diplomacy currently in full swing, a wider effort too needs to be made to build an environment of peace.

Ordinary people must be incorporated into such an effort, and weaned away from the tendency to engage in the kind of hostile war games witnessed at the border each evening.

Only once this process starts can there be hope that the opening up once more of the Wagah border can lead to still better days ahead. With a high-powered delegation of Pakistani parliamentarians expected to visit India within the year, it is clear that peace efforts will remain the dominant theme at least for the present. This is of course an important first step towards any more concrete agreements, which it is hoped will follow when the leaders of both countries eventually sit down with each other across the table and begin a new round of talks.