Bruges offers a window on Belgian heritage

Some dismiss Europe's best-preserved and most beautiful medieval city as little more than a historical theme park.

Though the centre of Bruges can be a tad touristy, away from the busy squares of the Markt (market) and Burg (castle) you can't fail to be enchanted.

There is an oval "frame" of pretty canals that follow the city's old fortifications and you can get your bearings with a tranquil 30-minute boat tour of the waterways.

Delightful sights

The cobbled streets of the old centre, a Unesco World Heritage Site, fan out from the Markt and the main attractions are no more than a ten-minute stroll away.

Head northeast for a few minutes to the folk museum — the Stedelijk Museum voor Volkskunde — at Balstraat 43 and you're in a delightful residential neighbourhood with pretty period housing and churches.

Pause and rest in the walled garden at Rolweg 64, before tackling the steep steps up to an imposing 18th-century windmill at the end of the street on Kruisvest.

Imposing architecture

The Burg has some imposing buildings. To one side of the Gothic Stadhuis (City Hall) is the grand Paleis van het Brugse Vrije (Liberty of Bruges Palace), festooned with 18th-century bling.

On the other side of the Stadhuis is the Heligbloed Basiliek (Basilica of the Holy Blood), so called because it has a phial containing two drops of Christ's blood.

Stop for mayonnaise-smothered chips at the green stalls on the Markt — so popular there's even a museum, the Friet, dedicated to the snack. Choco-Story at Wijnzakstraat 2 celebrates another Belgian staple but neither spot will detain you long.

Better to seek out the principal museums. The Gruuthuse at Dijver 17 has furniture, sculpture and ceramics while art lovers can enjoy Flemish masterpieces dating from the 14th century at the Groeninge Museum.

For shoppers, the main interest is west of the Markt. Bruges is famed for lace and there are plenty of opportunities to buy in the tourist areas. Beware, though — much of the fabric comes from Asia.

The city's open spaces are petite yet plentiful. Koningin Astridpark crams in a bandstand, a playground and a towering church.

Lush retreat

There's more greenery at Minnewater Park and the neighbouring Begijnhof, where unmarried and widowed women retreated in medieval times for a life of religious devotion.

Foodies will find a splendid choice of restaurants, including 't Gulden Vlies at Mallebergplaats 17 — cosy and romantic.

Only the most jaded traveller could be bored by Bruges. But if you need a break from relentless architectural eye candy, jump on a train for the 20-minute trip to Belgium's coast, which is peppered with attractive, low-key resorts.

Evidently, those who dismiss delightful Bruges are the ones who will really miss out.

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— Information courtesy the Holiday Lounge by Dnata. Ph: 04 3492886