Back inn vogue with luxe twist

Journey to the centre of the New Forest, Hampshire's ancient heath and woodland, where ponies, cattle and deer still freely roam, and you will find a dazzling attraction. Lime Wood, a bespoke 29-bedroom, luxury country-house hotel has opened its doors — with rates starting at £225 (Dh1,318) and rising to £725 (Dh4,247) per night.

British notions of the spoiling country-house hotel are changing and Lime Wood fills a growing gap in the market. A postwar concept, the country-house hotel became popular among city workers seeking rest and recuperation, and as the idea took hold, more private homes were converted into hotels by hands-on owners who specialised in welcoming guests into their cosy world.

Other famous examples of the genre include Peter Herbert's Gravetye Manor in West Sussex and Paul Henderson's Gidleigh Park in Devon.

Throughout the ensuing decades, country hotels, luxury and inexpensive, continued to multiply — of an estimated 46,000 hotels and guesthouses in Britain, 5,000 are country-house hotels.

Fresh starts

What is noticeable, however, is how few have opened in recent years. Those that have are different in character. "Nowadays, people regard them as bases for activities such as walking, attending literary festivals, or using the spa and sporting facilities but they also want that base to be somewhere they can talk about to their friends," says Bob Cotton, chief executive of the British Hospitality Association. They demand high standards, too.

"Urbanites choosing a luxury retreat have stylish homes. They want something at least equal to, preferably better than, what they have. People are looking for something different. Location and easy transport are vital," Cotton says.

Revamp in style

Barnsley House, recently bought by Richard Ball of Calcot Manor, is almost certain to get it right when it reopens next spring. Cowley Manor, also in the Cotswolds, has always had its aficionados, while among the more expansive, resort-style hotels, The Grove, along with Four Seasons Hampshire, also has pulling power. Coworth Park, with polo fields and equestrian centre, has lured top chef John Campbell from the Vineyard at Stockcross and is using state-of-the-art environmental technology in its construction.

Stately Lucknam Park, near Bath, now with a sleek new spa. Olga Polizzi's Tresanton remains a chic haven on the Cornish coast and Gidleigh Park, now owned by billionaire businessman Andrew Brownsword, a glossy one in Devon. When he bought Gidleigh, Brownsword — with chef Michael Caines — brought the hotel into the 21st century. They correctly read guests' requirements and set the hotel on course for success.

Country house hotels depend, as with any product, on the people behind them. Which is why Lime Wood has a good chance: Its dream team includes a millionaire backer, a local Michelin-starred chef and also a local. The backer, Jim Ratcliffe, used to eat at Le Poussin, the New Forest restaurant of the chef, Alex Aitken, and agreed to buy a hotel and restaurant for Aitken when it came up for sale. But neither had more than a passing acquaintance with the hotel industry.