Does size matter?

In a city consumed by size, where everything always needs to be bigger and flashier and where extravagance is the norm, Mahec is a sanctuary. Brunch at the Le Meridien Dubai eatery bucks the trend.

Don't expect rows of tables stretching as far as the eye can see laden with food. The crowds drawn by the gimmicks some venues employ are thankfully absent.

Instead, the restaurant — its name an acronym for Modern Authentic Hindustani Evolved Cuisine — is like a stately aunt. She has exacting standards, but won't ever be called flashy. Her impeccable manners stem from an internal drive, rather than a need to impress others. Because she's visibly prim and proper, outsiders often erroneously perceive her to be staid.

Yes, Mahec is that aunt. She's good-hearted, and she likes things done the right way, but that doesn't mean she can't have fun.

Sitting down for Friday brunch, before the crisp white tablecloths and polished silverware could suggest that we behave accordingly, a waiter led my companion and me to the snack station. Set up like a roadside stall, the chefs here punt street food delicacies. Their easy manner is infectious as they encourage diners still wiping the tamarind and chaat masala mixture from their mouths to have one more pani puri, one more bhel puri with its crisp and savoury mixture of puffed rice and everything-but-the-kitchen-sink covered in yoghurt.

We managed to tear ourselves away after a final aloo puri, but then only because the smells from the neighbouring live grill were too alluring to resist.

Impressive editing

The chermoula-marinated lobster couldn't be faulted, the meat firm and smoky as you prise it out of the shell. Skewered chicken cubes were lightly herbed, and the lamb chops offered just the right amount of resistance, perfect with a sliver of fat on the outside.

If possible, the main courses were even better, and this is where the chef's tight editing impressed: one chicken dish, one lamb dish and one vegetarian was brought to our table, alongside dal, rice, breads and chutneys and raita as expected. The butter chicken was thick and rich, the meat soft as can be. The rogan josh counts among the best I've tasted, with the gravy flavourful and the meat succulent. It was the perfect accompaniment to the lamb biryani.

Dessert included small servings of rasmalai and kulfi, a sweet ending that's satisfying without pushing one over the edge.

At Mahec, the food is great, the atmosphere is relaxed and the staff hover discreetly, intuitively aware of your needs. This aunt favours quality of dishes over the quantity thereof. And she does it perfectly. What more could one ask for?

MAHEC Le Meridien Dubai

• Call: 04-7022615
• Must-haves: Take your pick, you can't go wrong.
• Decor: Reserved elegance.
• Ambience: Relaxed.
• Price: Dh125, or Dh225 including beverages.