The Directory: Brendan Mullane

In 2009, Italian fashion house Brioni had on offer a US$48,000 (Dh176,299) pinstripe suit made from one of the world’s rarest fabrics — the wool of the vicuna, a South American animal from the llama family. The pinstripes were stitched using white gold.

Started in 1945, the brand has developed into a made-to-measure tailored suits powerhouse — including providing suits for the very suave James Bond in the 007 films after 1995.

Now at the helm of creative direction is British-born Columbian Brendan Mullane, formerly TAB menswear head designer at Givenchy. With a resume that boasts time spent at luxury fashion houses Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Burberry and Alexander McQueen, Mullane is well equipped to take the house, known for its luxurious suits cut in the finest materials, forward.

The Directory caught up with the new face of the Italian fashion institution.

Q: Who is the Brioni man and where does he exist? Does he change with the times?

A: He is one who has a naturally elegant and sophisticated attitude and thinks differently about himself and sees himself in a different light. He is a powerful man who loves travel and uses tailoring as an instrument of seduction. He is one who establishes a close relation with his garments.

Q: Where do you hope to take the brand in the coming years?

A: I would love to see Brioni become contemporary and desirable. That’s why I’m working for this and this is what you can start to see in my collection. It is graphic and with architectural shapes.

Q: Brioni has a great heritage — how do you honour it while making it modern?

A: Brioni is a brand with a great historical tradition and this is a very important aspect for a brand. It is able to realise with the same uniqueness and stylistic research each item. We are working for a new generation. There is space to conquer a new range of clients through innovative, contemporary and seductive items. There is nothing wrong with feeling sexy or desirable. Men are opening up to this idea and Brioni can give them this desire factor.

Q: What are the main wardrobe staples/builders of a modern man?

A: A versatile range of contemporary garments imbued with tailoring tradition and artisanal expertise.

Q: Walk us through the design process.

A: Contemporary art, cinema, music and all that is an expression of creativity is a source of inspiration for me. I’ve just moved to Rome and its wonderful architecture inspires me every day. All this is lifeblood for me, I cannot work without it. I’m also in constant communication with artisans who I consider fundamental for the design process.

Q: Tell us how it was to work with fashion stalwarts — Hermes, Burberry, Louis Vuitton, Alexander McQueen and Givenchy.

A: All the experiences that I’ve lived have influenced my personality and gave me the opportunity to shape my idea of style. This has helped me with my experience in Brioni and in the realisation of my collection. It represents a new start for me and for Brioni as well, but absolutely my past was fundamental for the evolution of my identity.

Q: Your biggest trends and top colours for 2013?

A: The colour palette of my first collection is inspired by the natural landscape of Siberia and includes the winter beige, deep brown gray, from ice to anthracite, midnight blue, soft cream, deep brown; bordeaux and ink sapphire blue. But one of the top colours of this season is blue, which is my favourite. I’ve used it also to realise a crocodile pochette bag which is part of the exclusive accessories of the new collection.