|
To preserve the unique identity of an 87-year-old brand while maintaining its position as the world's biggest selling Italian brand cannot be easy. But Frida Giannini, creative director of Gucci relishes the challenge.
“This job comes with a lot of pressure, but I don't like to think about that. When you are given this sort of responsibility, you have two possibilities — you can either completely panic or you can jump into the ring and take on the challenge," she says.
“I enjoy the fact that I am working for a brand that boasts such a rich history and heritage. I have learned so much from looking at the archives and working at such a high level of craftsmanship and quality. Being able to reinterpret historical iconic motifs in today's context is exciting and truly enjoyable," she adds.
The designer from Rome has so successfully combined her fresh vision with a contemporary interpretation of the Gucci legacy that in a recent Nielsen survey Gucci emerged as the most coveted luxury brand in the world.
Giannini's association with Gucci began in 2002, as director of handbag design. Two years later she became creative director of accessories in charge of the brand's iconic bags, shoes, luggage, small leathergoods, silks, fine jewellery, gifts, watches and eyewear.
In 2005 after the departure of glamour poster boy Tom Ford, she took over the responsibility of Gucci women's ready to wear and with menswear added to her portfolio in 2006, she is now the sole creative director of the label.
Gucci will hold a presentation of its autumn-winter 2008 collections for men and women at the Park Hyatt tonight. In the run up to this exclusive by-invitation-only event, we spoke to Giannini about the trends for the season, her challenging job and her vision for the brand.
Gucci women's wear seems to have a softer, lighter and less overtly sexy look now. How does your outlook differ from that of your predecessors?
When I started the job as creative director I wanted to bring back some joie de vivre to the house of Gucci. My approach to design is much lighter and I feel I have a typically feminine way of seeing the world. I love colours, cheerfulness and laughter, all elements that one can find in my designs.
What is your outlook on menswear?
I don't have a different outlook on menswear in comparison to womenswear; it is all a complete Gucci brand vision. The technical approach to menswear is different and has its own necessities, but the creative approach remains the same, whether you are designing women's wear, menswear, timepieces or fragrances.
You have been very successful as an accessories designer. How important are these to a brand's image and to the entire collection?
The Gucci brand has been known for its accessories from its very beginnings. They are the cornerstone of the house. They represent our expertise in leather goods and our attention to detail and quality. They are always an integral part of our collections because they help to define and create the frame for every single outfit. No look could be complete without a luxurious and modern handbag or beautiful boots.
How do you maintain a balance between the brand's history and legacy and a contemporary look?
To maintain a balance I try to use the traditional iconic motifs of the brand such as the interlocking GG, the web, the horsebit, the bamboo and the crest and re-interpret them in contemporary ways by using, for example, bold and striking colours, modern materials and innovative techniques.
Why did you choose to move the design studio to Florence?
I think that it is very important to have my creative team gathered together in the city that symbolises Gucci. It makes it easier to develop the synergies between the various lines, to communicate more effectively and develop an overall vision of the project as a whole. Working every day in this beautiful old building stimulates my creativity to the utmost although of course it is always important to travel. Being in Florence also means having a continuous contact with that great value inherent in the Florentine craftsmanship.
What is your long term vision for the brand? In today's context, how relevant is the ‘Made in Italy' tag?
At Gucci every product is “Made in Italy", and in some cases we collaborate with the same factories and companies that the Gucci family used back in the 1940's. Gucci is an international brand with over 200 stores worldwide, but the soul of the brand is still here in Italy. I think “Made in Italy" is still very important. It is a great value that has added to the history and the roots of the company — something that we want to protect. For the future of Gucci, craftsmanship and quality are fundamental. Gucci is 87 years old and to stay at the top I have to keep designing in modern and contemporary ways, without compromising our heritage.
How important is the brand's association with celebrities? Do you design with the red carpet in mind?
I am lucky that my designs are worn by A-list celebrities. It is great to see a celebrity at an LA premiere wearing one of my dresses, but it is just as great to walk down the street in Florence and find a modern woman carrying a Gucci handbag. I design for the Gucci woman in mind — strong, young and easy-going — who could be a celebrity or a working mother. Of course, I design some looks for celebrities attending special events, but my general creativity is channelled towards the Gucci woman and man.
Gucci is strongly associated with women like Jackie Kennedy, Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn. Who is the woman you are designing for today? And how do you pick the celebrity faces for your campaigns?
The Gucci woman is optimistic, confident and ironic in the way she dresses and expresses her personality. A woman with a great sense of humour and who never takes herself too seriously. The celebrity faces I have chosen represent the vision of the brand and reflect attitude and style that the Gucci man and woman have. For example, we have just revealed the face of our new fine jewellery campaign — Claire Danes. She is a modern icon. For me she is one of the most interesting young actresses on the international scene. She is very natural, fresh and has a carefree attitude, which can also be seen in the roles she has chosen. Claire's sensual, confident beauty and her passionate, independent and strong character embodies today's Gucci woman.
What is your view of Dubai and this region?
Dubai and its surroundings showcase a mixture of avant-garde architecture and strong traditions and customs — just like the Gucci brand — with a vast heritage that continuously looks to the future with innovation and modernity. Sadly I have not yet had the opportunity to visit.
Which is your most favourite Gucci creation ever?
La Pelle Guccissima (an original heat printed signature leather introduced under Giannini).
Gucci — a rich heritage:
Gucci was established in Florence in 1921 by Guccio Gucci as a leather goods company and small luggage store. The label's equestrian inspired bags, trunks, gloves, shoes and belts soon attracted a sophisticated clientele making the horsebit and stirrup motifs enduring symbols of the fashion house. The trademark green-red-green web derived from the saddle girth became a familiar symbol of the brand in the 1950's. The legendary interlocking double G logo was adopted in the mid 1960's.
Iconic products from the label include a saddle inspired bamboo-handled bag produced in the 1940's, the Gucci loafer with metal horsebit introduced in 1953, the Flora scarf designed for Princess Grace of Monaco in 1966, the Jackie O shoulder bag (top right) and the unisex Hobo bag popularised by Liz Taylor and Peter Sellers.
In 1994 then creative director Tom Ford's collection for the label attracted a lot of attention, especially for his silk cutout jersey with metallic hardware details. La Pelle Guccissima, an original heat printed signature leather introduced under Frida Giannini is destined to become the label's next icon.
|
