UAE | Leisure
A fashionably fitting finale
The first Dubai International Fashion Week (DIFW) ended on a high note with a pret e couture collection by French fashion house Lecoanet Hemant (LH).
- By Jyoti Kalsi
- Published: 00:00 April 6, 2007
- Models present collections by Lecoanet Hemant (left) and Raakhee Raipanchola.
- Image Credit: Hadrian Hernandez/Gulf News
The first Dubai International Fashion Week (DIFW) ended on a high note with a pret e couture collection by French fashion house Lecoanet Hemant (LH).
Indo-German Hemant Sagar and Frenchman Didier Lecoanet, who have won many prestigious awards since launching their label in Paris 27 years ago and will receive the 'Designer of the Year 2007' award at a ceremony in Miami later this month, brought their collection to Dubai for the first time, adding a true taste of classic French haute couture to the city.
The LH women's winter 07-08 collection was inspired by the ancient 'Amber Route' drawing from the rich culture and colours of Central and South Asia, but the cuts and look were classic French.
It was a treat to see the beautiful leather and wool jackets, smart suede trousers, delicately embroidered blouses, macramé skirts, patent leather shorts, body hugging tops and elegant flowing dresses. In true couture tradition there was so much exquisite detailing and textures in every garment.
The embellishments included wool embroidery inspired by Central Asian monasteries and Islamic motifs, Swarovski crystals, delicate screen printing, cut-out patterns on leather and golden metal studs. The palette juxtaposed various shades of amber, gold and silver with black, sepia, sand, mint and jade.
Sophisticated
Handmade doctor bags with plaited tassels, lacquered and painted leather strapped stilettos, belts with buckles inspired by Moghul trellises and raw beads worked onto woollen muffs completed the chic and sophisticated look.
"We have been catering to Middle East royalty for over two decades and it is a pleasure to be invited to do the grand finale of the first DIFW," said Hemant Sagar.
Among the impressive shows on the final day was Indian designer Troy Costa's collection for men and women. Troy specialises in haute couture and his clients include leading industrialists, film stars, diplomats and media personalities. He showcased the latest collection from his prêt label, 'Helen of Troy' at his first ramp appearance in Dubai.
Although it was a prêt collection, the garments had the look and detailing of haute couture ensembles. Rather than over the top embellishments Troy focussed on classic construction, sensuous drapes, impeccable cuts and clean lines. His dresses and skirts in black, gold, silver, lilac, ivory and red would make any woman feel as beautiful as Helen of Troy.
Draped bodices melted seamlessly into pleated chiffon skirts and window pleats extended elegantly into pin tucks in his dresses.
The perfectly matched inverted silk pleats on one top had velvet tape insertions peeping from underneath to compliment the velvet skirt, and the designer had covered pearls with fabric to create a unique texturing effect.
Troy's sexy backless, nearly waist-less dresses bore testimony to his mastery over drape and construction.
But the designer's true creativity and skill could be seen in his outstanding menswear line. Once again the beauty was in the details.
Tuxedos without lapels, Chinese collars with a twist, extended buttonholes, inverted seams, bright colourful lining on dark jackets, blends of suede, leather and denim, a belt made from buttons and Troy's signature asymmetric trim on jacket pockets were just some of the interesting details one could glimpse on the ramp.
Serious
"Although in the past I have designed for stars such as Shahrukh Khan and Saif Ali Khan, I prefer to stay away from the glamorous and glitzy side of fashion. I want to be seen as a serious designer who knows his craft and that is why I chose to participate in DIFW, which is a trade event," said Troy.
Pakistani designer Sobia Nazir, who won the Islamabad Best Designer Award in 2004 and 2005, also made her Dubai debut with a collection of fusion and ethnic garments. Her palette was vibrant and colourful and she had used an interesting mix of fabrics ranging from velvet and chiffon to hand woven raw silk and khaddar.
The eclectic embellishments included Kashmiri embroidery, beads, crystals and fur. Sobia highlighted the versatility of her garments by displaying how the long flowing tops could be coordinated with leggings, capris and skirts or worn as dresses. The highlights of her collection being the intricately embroidered lehengas.
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