Life & Style | Travel
Mangaldas ni Haveli
Mangaldas ni Haveli in Ahmedabad is all set to dazzle with its blend of tradition and modernity.
- By Meera Manek, Special to Explore
- Published: 23:30 November 21, 2008
The sun was beating down as I walked through the old town of Ahmedabad, India.
On a normal day, the streets would be buzzing with activity but that day there was a bandh and the whole of Gujarat was closed.
Though I love the energy of markets, seeing the bareness of the old town — the dry earth, the ancient buildings and the odd cow grazing lazily somewhere — I realised even this had a charm of its own.
This walled town is where the beautiful havelis (palatial houses) of Ahmedabad are located.
New-age transformation
I was being shown around a haveli which belonged to a Nagar Brahmin family more than 200 years ago.
But it was being converted into a crafts shop and a rooftop café and had been renamed Mangaldas ni Haveli, as it had been bought by the Mangaldas family two years ago. It was being managed by the House of Mangaldas Girdhardas (the House of MG), the heritage hotel where I was staying.
Walking into the haveli, which will open in August next year, I was struck by the exquisite wooden architecture.
The rich, intricate carvings were fascinating but had more than just ornamental use. Carving increases the surface area of wood and hence helps greater absorption of heat.
Just as in other havelis, the layout comprises rooms built around an open central courtyard, which allows light to filter in.
I walked up a narrow flight of stairs, leading to a beautiful café area, next to which a crafts shop would be set up.
There were large, pink flower designs on the ceiling, which added a a modern touch to the traditional building. Up the next flight of stairs was the roof, with an unmatched view of the city.
Though the trip to the haveli lasted less than an hour, I was tired and asked my guide from the House of MG to take me back to the hotel.
Spread over 35,000 square feet, the House of MG was where Mahatma Gandhi stayed when he returned from South Africa in 1915.
Pleasant surprises
With Italian mosaic and marble flooring, stained-glass windows, courtyards and open passages with traditional swings, or jhoolas, this building has wonderful surprises in every corner.
Though the property has been renovated so it can be transformed into a 12-bedroom hotel, the original architectural features have been retained and the place still has a warm, homely feel to it.
Most of the rooms have a jhoola and an upholstered sofa set and there are black-and-white pictures of members of the Mangaldas family on almost every wall. Some have a collage of family pictures while others have large group photos.
But rather than being overbearing, these pictures reinforce the hotel's homely feel.
On the other hand, the boutique rooms, equipped with comfortable beds, large shower areas and internet facilities, raise the luxury quotient of the haveli.
Twice as nice
The two restaurants provide a wide variety of cuisines. The rooftop Agashiye, which means “on the terrace'' in Gujarati, serves delicious Gujarati cuisine in a grand setting.
Downstairs, The Green House, an open-air eatery, serves Indian snacks, salads, sandwiches and ice-creams. Both provide some of the best spreads in Ahmedabad.
While the hotel has a large indoor swimming pool, the only thing it lacks is a spa. But whatever the shortcomings, I would never choose to stay anywhere else in Ahmedabad.
Meera Manek is a UK-based freelance writer.
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