Life & Style | Travel
Lord of the stings
The blistered confessions of a first-time trekker in New Zealand.
- By Tim Brothers, Special to Explore
- Published: 23:47 January 9, 2009
“OK, I admit it, I'm a failed trekker. It's my fault. I shouldn't have bought street shoes.
That's why they call them ‘street shoes'… And this is about as far from my local mall as one can get!''
This is what I could have enunciated, had I been more open. But no, having spent the last six hours stumbling through Tongariro National Park (New Zealand's North Island), and some of the most rugged landscape I've ever encountered, my feet had been torn to tatters, and my patience reduced to a thinness that threadbare rugs could only aspire to. I was peeved, to put it politely.
Incredible scenery
Pity, as I was also surrounded by the most incredible volcanic scenery this side of Middle Earth. Before me seethed Mount Ngauruhoe, also known as Mount Doom, the silver-screen's volcano that the Lord of the Rings' Frodo tossed his deadly little trinket into.
But I'm getting ahead of myself. Apologies…
Flashback: The previous day, my fiancée and I had arrived in the nearby town of Turangi near picturesque Lake Taupo; a solid base for exploration of the park.
That afternoon, we ventured out to Mount Ruapehu, at Tongariro's northwest entrance. At 2797m, Ruapehu is the tallest point on the North Island.
On Ruapehu's western flank, the Whakapapa ski-park comprises of 15 lifts. We took the telecabin to the halfway ski-centre, planning to trek the remaining several hundred metres to the crater's rim.
Now, however, the weather was closing in and after stumbling up the snowy embankment for half an hour, the mist had wrapped around the mount like a frosty winter scarf. On a clear day you can see both east and west coastlines from the summit, but at this point my shoelaces are barely visible. We turned back.
Funny how fast disappointment melts in hot chocolate. Aside from warm beverages, the ski centre also serves a fascinating photo-historical journey of the area.
Ruapehu is amongst the most active volcanoes in the world, the southern tip of a 2,500km volcanic range, which starts under the Pacific.
The exhibition features some spectacular shots of its previous eruptions, like in 1996 when the park was forced to close due to lava flows.
The ensuing ash-cloud covered virtually the length of the North Island, and some daredevil skiers even slalomed through it.
A good friend of mine took a flight over the leaking crater at the time. Most incredible are photos of 1950s families bathing in the crater lake; it fills up between explosions. Very kitsch and, admittedly, rather lethal.
Day Two: We attempt the Tongariro Crossing (17km, 6-8hours). It's the most popular hiking trail in the park and has earned a reputation as the world's best one day hike.
We enter the Mangatopopo plain at the park's western entrance.
Flanked by Mount Tongariro (1,967m) on the left and the perfect volcanic cone of Ngauruhoe (2,287m) on the right, it's like creeping past two sleeping giants. This is a barren volcanic landscape, which smacks more than a bit of Mordor.
Mount Doom
We wind our way through fields dotted with fertile tussock clumps. Side trips are optional. Thermal springs lie to the north, while some intrepid hikers choose to tackle the volcanic summits. One can clearly see thick lava trails cutting down “Mt Doom'' like dark veins. Not the most courage-inspiring sight for this wannabe trekker.
From the patchy alpine meadow we clamber up a ramp of scattered pumice. A sharp upturn has us on hands and knees. Suddenly we're on a disturbingly even football oval, one kilometer wide, and with a cracked golden skin. This is the Southern (or Yellow) Crater.
The ramp continues on the other side. Loose pumice turns to ash, and the climbing is soft, slippery and difficult. Several hundred vertical metres take us to the top of the saddle.
Breaching the final summit opens a spectacular panorama, like a theatre curtain lifting. It feels like the highest point on Mars.
Return to base
At the Red Crater, sculpted red rock twists into black bands and rippling lava tubes. The spectacular ringed abyss like looking into a dragon's tonsils.
The sand underfoot was hot; actually steaming. But most breathtaking of all is the view over the Oturere Valley out to the Emerald Lakes, and the distant Blue Lake. It is a lunar landscape punctuated with alien-green ponds. Purely sublime.
We had done about two thirds of the crossing, but pushed for time, we had no option but to return the same way. In the hurry, my thin socks rip and my unsuitable Doc Marten boots tear at my heels.
I had grossly underestimated our day's feat, and now my feet are paying. By the time we reach the car I've developed blisters the length of my thumbs.
I'd even taken the shoes off for the last couple of kilometers.
The next day I invest in some New Zealand mountain boots. And to anyone not blessed with hardy hobbit's feet, I highly recommend the same!
Tim Brothers is a UAE-based freelance writer
Go there ... Tongariro National Park ... From the UAE
Auckland is one of the closest airports
From Dubai
Emirates flies daily.
Fare from Dh7,810
Singapore Airlines flies daily via Singapore.
Fare from Dh5,480
— Information courtesy: The Holiday Lounge by Dnata. Ph: 04 4298576
Information
It's easiest to take an internal flight to Taupo Airport, and then catch a connecting bus. Or take one of the daily trains from Auckland to National Park Village and Ohakune.
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