Travel | Destinations
A tale of two countries
Emma Procter's trip to the Lebanese capital Beirut, followed by a tour of Latakia in Syria, gave an insight into the mindset of two ambitious neighbours
- By Emma Procter, Features Editor
- Published: 20:51 October 30, 2009
- REGION
- Middle East
- HOLIDAY TYPE
- Culture/Heritage
A recent trip to Lebanon and Syria blew away many of the steroetypes I guess we all carry around with us. The two countries have each had their own seperate economic and social challenges to deal with over the years, but they're united by a common desire: to win the hearts of tourists. So I paid a flying four day visit to see what would appeal.
Travelling in style
Things started very well indeed with a flight on Etihad's eagerly promoted business class service. I was travelling from Abu Dhabi direct to Beirut and I enjoyed a very happy hour or so in the airport's luxurious business class lounge, which includes an elegant buffet area (forget sandwiches, this is posh nosh delicately arranged on glass plates), a very elegant seating area, a beverages bar with real bartenders and a great business area with flat screen monitors and the latest computer software.
On the flight itself, I found the business class section to be an exercise is perfectly coordinated customer anticipation. Every whim is catered for and I liked the touch of offering mobile media players rather than having to contort your neck with an attached monitor. My drinks were constantly replenished and the food when it arrived, in courses with proper tableware, was delicious.
A city looking forward
My first impression after landing in Beirut was that things are definitely on the up. We were processed at Beirut airport quickly and efficiently (was I expecting it to be a shambles?) and before long myself and a group of other regional travel writers were heading for Beirut centre.
One of the main aims of the visit was to see attend the opening of the new Raouche Arjaan four-star hotel by Rotana. The hotel itself is positioned by the sea on the famous Raouche Boulevard, about twenty minutes from the airport and next to the bustling downtown area. It's essentially a business hotel, but with comfortable design and a decent restaurant - not to mention agreat location - it's perfectly suited to a flock of casual tourists or two.
There's a very nice sun terrace and pool on the top floor that was literally just about to open and I can imagine that the property will be a great success. Staff are friendly and helpful and there's a feeling that everyone really cares that things go well.
Sights and sounds
A guided evening stroll around Beirut centre was a fascinating mix of rickety buildings, very old churches and mosques illustrating the region's eventful history, and a suprising Euuropeanstyle town centre complete with designer shops and cool cafes and drinking venues.
I had been told that Beirut's nightlife was legendary and indeed everywhere we went people grinned broadly when we asked if the it was as good as reputed. “Things come alive after 2am in Beirut,” one waitress told me as we stopped for a drink. And indeed as the evening progresses there's an almost tangible vibration in the air. I didn't make it to any of the early hours venues on this trip, but I have made a mental note for my next visit...
A taste of Lebanon
We dined at the renowned Abdel Wahab el-Inglizi restaurant, which is located in a large and very pretty old Ottoman house. We gorged ourselves on dish after dish of high quality Lebanese mezze and the talk flowed on along with the local traditional beverage (try it). We were sat upstairs on a kind of terrace that afforded a nice view of some of the traditional Beirut houses. A great evening.
Living history
The following day we visited the historical ruins of Byblos, about 35km north of Beirut.
Apparently, one of the top contenders for the ‘oldest continously inhabited city' award, the site has been inhabited by the Neolithics, a Bronze Age community, the Greeks and the Arabs. Each society leaving its buildings and treasures. A must for archaeolgy buffs. There's a fascinating museum onsite too and a lovely cobbled souq with cafes and restaurants close-by.
A place for a party
Later we headed to the much talked about Edde Sands Wellness Hotel and Beach resort situated just next to the Byblos site.The sprawling, and actually very attractive resort, is famed in the area as being somewhere where the Lebanese like to go and party, to see and be seen.Open year-round, the 100,000 metre-squared holiday spot is a mix of swimmingpools, restaurants, spa spots, dancing areas, green areas and more
swimming pools. You could get lost in the million nooks and crannies. After a tour we all sat down to another al fresco meal (despite it being October,
the weather was delightfully balmy) and gorged ourselves into a stupor once again. The plates just keep coming in Lebanon and the cuisine, although not widely varied, is as fresh as it gets and moorish. It will be a while before I can look a plate of fattoush in the face though.
Some after dinner boogying to traditional (Egyptian?) music left us cheerily ready for next day's trek across the border to Syria.
Borderline madness
As a traveller worth your salt, you have to expect that sometimes things won't go according to plan. And such was the case when our coach driver took us to the wrong border entry for Syria,leaving us in an unbelievably crazy lorry jam. Imagine a narrow stretch of dusty road. Now put three lanes of traffic down it comprising trucks, cars, vans and motorbikes all going in opposite directions. Add some bemused locals and a lot of frantic running around and visa waving and you get the gist. It was exhausting and alarming at times but immense fun! Local colour? The people manning the Lebanon/Syria border invented the phrase.
The birth of a resort
When we eventually made it through there's no denying team spirit was high and our ever-resourceful Rotana reps looked like they needed a six-month vacation. So it was with much anticipation that we arrived at the shiny, brand new 5-star Afamia Rotana Resort. Offering 246 guest rooms including one, two, three and four bedroom suites with a lovely of the beach and the port, the hotel boasts a good all-day restaurant, a funky piano bar, a very nice gym, a beauty salon and lots and lots of space to just walk around. Syria as a whole is now making serious attempts to be taken seriously as a travel destination and I think that resorts like the Afamia, although fledgling, are the right way to go. It's not mega fancy in the Dubai sense, but it is certainly very comfortable and the mammoth outdoor space is simply perfect fo rejuvenating yourself.
Getting under the skin
You can take a trip into Latakia itself to see the local sites of interest and there are some decent shops, but really it was when we headed out into the mountains that I fell for Syria as a country.On a winding journey we saw the first signs of Turkey in the distance and the higher we went, the lusher and more beautiful everything became. A few of the hairpin turns left my stomach recalling the previous night's mezze, but aside from that the scenery was truly breathtaking. We stopped at regular intervals for photo opportunities and for our guides to point out places of interest,particualy the gorgeous Geneva-like lakes.
Getting ready for visitors
You see see green shoots of construction every few miles, a hotel here, a few restaurants there. Syria is gearing up for tourists and the much-needed cash injection they'll bring. I hope they remember to take care of the beauty of the place. We stopped for lunch at The Royal Palace Hotel high in the hills, where we assembled (outdoors naturally) in a huge terrace for food. The banquet sized tables should have hinted at the fare to come and truly, when the speciality dishes arrived I was overwhelmed. Syrian food is not vastly differemt from Lebanese, but I have to be honest, the quality on offer here blew me away, especially the most sublime Arabic -style chicken bryani I have ever tasted. Maybe it was the mountain air intensifying the flavours, but if Syria wants tourists they should go down the gourmet route.
The fondest farewell
The rest of my day was spent perusing local villages and ambling round the resort on our return. And then suddenly, it was time to go back across the border (the right one this time and very easy) to fly back to Abu Dhabi from Beirut Airport. In short, I loved Beirut for its vibrancy and Latakia and the surrounding areas for the tranquility. And I'll forgive both countries for the extra dress size.
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