Abandoned glory: The treasures of the Hajjar Mountains

The lone caretaker was playing his flute outside his stone hut in the abandoned settlement as we sat quietly, listening to his tune.

Video: Visiting abandoned settlements in Hajjar

We were 1,100 metres above sea level and the place was completely deserted. The last time he had interacted with other people must have been months ago.

Surprisingly, however, he seemed physically and mentally unhindered by the solitary lifestyle he has been living for the past three years. I began to wonder how I would fare in such conditions.

Beyond borders

We had driven from Dubai and crossed the border into Dibba, Oman, just after 9.30am, passed the roundabout that also leads to Khasab and followed the route towards Jebel Quiwi.

The peaks rose above us from either side of the narrow, rugged road and were so high they blocked the sun.
Saif Poovanchery, the managing director of Explorer Tours, Dubai, was our guide for the day and pointed out various settlements along the way.

There were small stone houses sitting under the mountains, a few goats roaming the area in search of what little food they could find and electricity poles indicating a change in the neighbourhood.

None of the local families live here but every now and then prefer to come back and spend their weekends away from it all.

We stopped for a while to survey the peaceful area, so different from our own urban lifestyle. We also passed a few construction trucks and it seemed a miracle we even managed to squeeze by.

We noticed a couple of caves that were hauntingly inviting — some couldn't wait to organise another trip just to enter the dark spaces.

A little later, we continued upwards along the winding mountain road. The views were unbelievable, which almost made up for the fact that there weren't any real barriers.

It took us about 20 minutes to reach the top and we were greeted by a donkey that stopped near the vehicle as if anticipating a photo op!

We stopped the vehicle in an open space by a water tank and stepped out to admire the uninterrupted view of Jebel Quiwi.

The mountain is said to offer one of the best treks for enthusiasts and it takes about four hours to get to the top and another four hours for the way down. For this hike, a good level of fitness is required.

Real trekkies

The walk we were undertaking to the village lasted about one hour.

Although it is one of the easiest treks, it proved to be slightly demanding for me, a non-experienced trekker. Because it was an uphill battle and the temperature was a soaring 40 degrees, we paused about four times along the way for quick water breaks to avoid dehydration.

Saif told us about the wildlife inhabiting the area, which included leopards — the thought of which excited most of the group. Unfortunately, we didn't see any.

I'm usually not too good with heights and when I watch movies where trekkers are walking along a small track on the side of the mountain, I shudder at the thought. Yet here I was, looking down towards at least 1,000 metres of rocky terrain.

Who would have thought standing at the edge of the Northern Hajjar Mountains would turn out to be one of my most memorable moments since first moving to the UAE?

When I spotted the abandoned village in the distance, I stopped breathing so heavily and enjoyed the view.

Saif started to call out for the caretaker as we looked around thinking how someone could live here all alone with no electricity or running water.

The distant sound of the radio originated from a tiny hut, which serves as his sleeping quarters. He emerged from the hut, looking, I'm sure, far fresher than I did.

We dropped our bags and sat down on a mat the caretaker laid out for us, after which he generously offered us some refreshing tea. Most of the villages in the mountain belong to a tribe called Shahi or Shihu, Saif said.

“Apart from having goats and sheep, they also grow vegetables in winter. Rainwater was collected with falaj, which are water channels leading from the hills to a water well and preserved for at least a couple of years so that they are ready to face a dry season,'' he said.

A quiet life

As most of such settlements are located between Dibba and Ras Al Khaimah, the tribes had to travel to collect food, such as rice, dates and dry fish. Donkeys were most likely used for transporting goods.

There hasn't been anyone living in this village for about 40 years but the family which owns the land comes here every few months.

As I took a peek into the kitchen, it was obvious the family left the caretaker plenty of supplies to keep him going. He has a mobile phone and would only switch it on to contact his boss or family in Pakistan after a short walk to the top of the mountain.

There are about three rows for growing corn but there has hardly been any rain recently and they have all dried up.

This is a great place to camp but it is advisable to get permission to enter the fenced area as an act of courtesy.

As we started to head back before it got too late in the afternoon, we took one look around and could not help but admire the caretaker's strength.

Top trekking tips

For more information visit www.explorertours.ae or call 04 286 1991