Scents and scents-ability

Howard Shaughnessy, managing director of The Fragrance Factory, manages the development of some of the most exclusive fragrances in the world. Mehmudah Rahman finds out what tickles his fancy ... and his nose.

"Perfume puts the finishing touch to elegance – a detail that subtly underscores the look, an invisible extra that completes a woman's personality. Without it there is something missing."
This quote from Gianni Versace explains how subtle, yet powerful perfume can be. A perfume – be it woody and mysterious or light and flowery – makes a statement.

Howard Shaughnessy holds the same opinion. Passionate about perfumes, Shaughnessy says that perfume should not be considered an aspect of fashion. He believes it goes much deeper than that: it is a complete experience that can create a mood or even a memory.

The Fragrance Factory founded by Shaughnessy 18 years ago is now one of the top 100 companies (growth-wise) in the UK. They supply perfumes to a thousand stores all over the UK, among them Selfridges, Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Debenhams, with an impressive list of brand-names including Canali, Ferrari, Austin Reed and Loewe.

I

I have been interested in fragrances since I was a boy. My mother used to get quite upset with me because I would pluck the roses from her beautiful rose garden, take the petals and crush them, in the hope of preserving the wonderful smell!

After graduating from university, I worked in the fashion industry, but I decided to venture into the fragrance industry because it appealed to me more. About 25 years ago, I got my first job in the fragrance industry at Harrods.

I learnt a lot about perfume during this time and I was soon promoted to the sales management department, then marketing and finally became responsible for international marketing and product development at Harrods for various brands such as Estee Lauder and Clinique.

That was my last job being employed by someone else. I realised that there was a need for an alternative, independent distributor. In 1995 my partner Georges Pharand and I set up The Fragrance Factory.

I had connections in the sector and it was a happy day when we won distribution rights for our first client, Burberry.
It was with sheer determination and hard work that our first launch was a successful one. In those days, Burberry was neither as glamorous nor as popular as it is today.

Things changed for them when Rosemary Bravo came to the helm and Burberry became one of the most exclusive designer brands on the market in a period of three to four years.

Luckily, we were in the right place at the right time and more companies began to trust us with the distribution and marketing of their brands.

I decided about five years ago that marketing and distribution in the UK was not enough. So in order to cater
to an overseas market, European Designer Productions (EDP) was born. We also realised that a lot of major fashion houses did not have their own fragrances. We therefore decided to move into product-development. Brands such as Jasper Conran have developed a fragrance line that was launched exclusively by EDP. Our international distribution slowly began to pick up and we now supply to 20 countries outside of the UK. The UAE is one of our major markets.

Me

Me and success

Success can only be achieved through hard work and persistence. One must have realistic expectations – not unreasonably high ones. Working in harmony with your partners and with the entire team is crucial.

I have been lucky to be blessed with a wonderful partner and a dedicated and professional team. I follow my instincts and hope for the best and I try to learn from my mistakes.

Me and my family

My parents are extremely supportive of me and are very proud of me – so much so that I get a bit embarrassed at times! I miss them a lot as I live in the city while they live in the country, but we try to meet up often and are always in touch through phone and e-mail.

I am very attached to my Bassett hound – a typical hush puppy with big, floppy ears. Her presence relaxes me and slows me down – she even accompanies me to work! But she is rather slow and lazy and weighs 26kg. Even though I live just four minutes away from work, we drive to work every morning because she doesn't like to walk! I miss her immensely when I travel and my parents look after her when I am away.

Me and creativity
I think creativity in any business is extremely important. The same can be said for the fragrance industry where the competition is fierce and one must always come up
with new and innovative ideas to market products. From the packaging of the perfumes to designing the hoardings to coming up with names for our products, it's all about creativity. I try to be as original and inventive as I can.

Me at work

Managing people is not an easy job.
My philosophy is to be hands-on and helpful with those working under me. Working with people rather than having people work for you can increase productivity of a team as it creates a comfortable work environment for others as well as for yourself. It is important to understand the different roles and perspectives that people have and to communicate with them by being open and honest is really the key.

Me and recreation

My favourite thing in the world is travelling because I feel I can always learn new things by visiting different places. Whether I am travelling or at home, I like to give myself some time out. I love to curl up in an armchair, put my feet up, sip a cup of tea and watch some movies or get lost in a good book. I find that this helps me to relax. I like to take long walks in the park and I also spend time with my friends.

Myself

If you weren't MD at The Fragrance Factory, what would your line of work be? Why did you choose to work with perfumes?
I'm sure it would have been a career in the arts – either fashion or music.

I specifically chose perfumes because they present this great mystery to me; I am intrigued by them. There are days when I have to pinch myself and ask "am I really working in the fragrance industry"? Needless to say, my job is my dream job!

What are the best and the worst things about being an entrepreneur?

The best things are the freedom to make a difference, to be creative and being able to influence and educate people. Managing your own business and watching it grow is exciting. The worst part is uncertainty as you never know what's around the corner. Your own business is like your own baby in a way and it is easy to get emotionally involved. The company begins to mean too much to you. One of the challenges of being an entrepreneur is to take a step back, evaluate things and make level-headed decisions.

Do you get to meet with A-list stars and models in your industry? Would you say your position includes an element of glamour?

It's a glamorous business and I love every bit of it. I'm lucky that I get to meet many A-listers within my line of work. I get invited to premieres, magazine events and the like and every so often I find myself chatting with someone who looks very familiar. I don't always realise at the time who I'm talking to. I sometimes have to be reminded who it was that I was talking to!

What has been the funniest incident in
your career to date?
It was unusual for men to work in the fragrance department at Harrods.

I was one of the first male employees hired by Clinique.
As a result, they did not have a uniform for me and I ended up wearing a dentist's jacket! The clients became ell-acquainted with me as a result because of this! I eventually got a uniform specially made!

They say that the fragrance that a person wears speaks volumes about his/her personality. Do you agree?
I do agree providing that that a person knows what he/she wants.

I believe we need more consumer education in this industry as people are easily swayed by the media and they think they know what they like. Fragrances smell differently on different people and it is important to know your preferences and not
to be influenced primarily
by advertising.

Do you have favourite perfumes for him and her?

It really depends on my mood.
I usually prefer fresh smells like lemon and citrus. My favourite is a little-known, mass-market cologne Nanuco that is available in Spain by Johnson and Johnson. I like it because it smells incredibly light and is refreshing!
In the women's department I think that roses are extraordinary and their scent is one of the most underestimated in the industry. I also love perfumes made from white flowers such as gardenia and tube-roses as well as amber and precious woods like sandal.

What do you think of Dubai?
Dubai is a city with a unique personality. It is an interesting place and as I have been visiting it for many years, I find the development remarkable. In some ways it's like London – a transitional city and a melting pot of cultures. I love the feeling of hope and happiness that the city seems to exude and the people are warm and friendly. And the shopping is wonderful too!

– Mehmudah Rahman is a Dubai-based freelancer