London Fashion Week neared its climax on Sunday with shows by Preen, Topshop, Mulberry and others taking place at many sites in the more-chic-than-usual British capital.
A fleet of Mercedes-Benz sedans is ferrying VIPs from venue to venue as buyers, bloggers and wannabes gauge each show for that elusive dash of something special and off the wall. Not to be outdone, some have arrived at shows in a polished silver Rolls-Royce.
The pace of shows is a challenge for anyone trying not to miss a thing.
TOPSHOP
She’s a bohemian soul, living in the moment — Topshop Unique’s latest offering is all about clothes that give off that carefree, freewheeling vibe.
The outfits may look thrown on and eclectic, but the look is anything but effortless. Getting the dressed down cool girl look just right requires careful layering and thought.
Staged in a basement hall in London’s Tate Modern art gallery, the label’s show featured models in figure-hugging, bias-cut slip dresses — some with high slits — that were layered under graphic sweatshirts, oversized sweaters and outdoorsy fleeces.
Elsewhere, super-short mini-skirts in high-shine primary colours and satiny, striped wide trousers were paired with sporty striped tops.
As always with Topshop, there was plenty of fun and attention-grabbing party wear, too. A huge, fluffy orange coat stood out, as well as some silver sequined dresses adorned with bright floral embroidery.
PREEN
It’s time for autumn and winter collections, but the space set up by Preen by Thornton Bregazzi had a springtime feel more in tune with the British countryside with painted splashes of colour suggesting flowers bursting into bloom.
This cheerful feeling pervaded the collection, with many black outfits set off by floral themes relying on fine embroidery and other outfits featuring reds and blues.
The models wore smeared red lipstick (evocative of a kiss, the designers said) and the choices were unusual, including a black and white shearling coat worn over a black floral bra.
Gowns were styled off the shoulder, and flat shoes and boots featured pale pink, a colour seen in a number of outfits in the first few days of fashion week.
There was also a traditionally tailored tweed suit, as might have been in style a century ago, but set off with an oversize, bright green colour, and a lingerie-style dress.
Designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi displayed photos of books they said had helped inspire the collection, including works by poet Carol Ann Duffy, the photographer Christina Boom and the artist Tracey Emin.
“It’s just a celebration of women throughout history and the importance of women who have something to say,” Thornton said of the collection.
ANYA HINDMARCH
Anya Hindmarch kicked off with a Scandinavian-inspired collection of women’s satchels, handbags, outerwear and shoes.
On a catwalk made to look like a snow-covered mountain, models in furry hats and goggle-like glasses descended from a peak carrying bags with colourful handwoven leather straps, structured backpacks and small purses, all adorned with clipped-on garlands, sparkly butterflies and layered hearts.
Hindmarch used suede, vegetable tanned leathers and long-haired shearling for her creations, which came in pinks, blues, mustard yellow, browns and grey.
Models wore knits over shorts or wool and felt coats and capes with colourful furry collars or panels. Furry shawls were tied on top. Footwear included embellished clogs with furry insides, slippers, sandals and creeper shoes.
“Autumn Winter 2017 explores the contrast between the romanticised notions of winter and wanderlust and the darker motifs found in Old Norse folklore,” Hindmarch said in shownotes.
“This has been explored through modern interpretations of traditional leather craft techniques, including Scandinavian Kurbits and complex hand-woven leatherwork.”
MULBERRY
At Mulberry, creative director Johnny Coca took inspiration from the British aristocracy’s life in the countryside, showcasing tweeds, lace and embroidery in his designs.
He presented equestrian-inspired quilted capes, blouses with knotted neck scarves or cuffs and asymmetric skirts.
Models wore crochet and ruffle dresses made to look like old heirlooms. Floral embroidery decorated oversized tweed jackets and skirts suits as well as tiered dresses.
“It’s about making something traditional feel new,” Coca said in a statement. “Taking these archetypal British styles, and making them feel right for today.” Vintage-like jewellery accessorised the looks in oxblood, ginger, green, purple, yellow, lavender and blue. A modern touch came in knit socks worn with sturdy heeled boots and loafers dressed with jewellery. Handbags nodded to travel luggage.
TEMPERLEY LONDON
At a catwalk show held in the financial Bank area, Temperley London took fashionistas onto a dreamy, romantic escapade with models wearing soft dresses in pale blues, lilacs and pinks.
Designer Alice Temperley kicked off her Painted Dreams presentation with peasant-like shirts with puffed up sleeves, tops with high regal collars and black neck bows, high waisted trousers and embroidered tops and skirts combinations in mainly dark colours.
Then followed plenty of dresses, some see-through, with prints and intricate embroidery of florals or lips, worn with backless loafers.
For the evening, models showcased richly-embellished shimmering gowns, light quilted-like skirts and dresses and luxurious silky jumpsuits. High-neck knits were worn with sequined skirts.
“I am selling very beautiful clothes and they have to be... dream-like,” Temperley said when asked about her inspiration. “And in a climate like today... it’s about creating something that... celebrates diversity and celebrates individuality.”