Life & Style | Food

Food with heart at Table 9 by Nick and Scott

The restaurant that has replaced Gordon Ramsay's Verre serves up inventive contemporary grub

  • By Nyree McFarlane and Farah Andrews, Scene magzine
  • Published: 00:00 January 5, 2012
  • Scene

  • Image Credit: Supplied picture
  • Table 9 has very simple pricing points, every starter costs Dh70, each main is Dh100 and desserts are Dh55-a-pop.
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When we arrived at Table 9 the waiter proudly presented us with an amuse-bouche called Potted plant with edible soil, a miniature terracotta pot that housed a punchy cauliflower mousse underneath a dukka soil, which was so tasty and exciting (we never thought we'd describe cauliflower with such passion) that we knew we were about to sample food that was inventive and full of whimsy.

Looking around the room while we ate every morsel of mousse, we knew that an artful journey lay ahead of us; there was handmade pottery, gorgeous art and - the best bit - a voyeuristic projection screen with a live video feed into the kitchen, focused on the chefs' hands plating the food with the love and care of sculptors.

The space that is now Table 9 used to be Verre by Gordon Ramsay, which opened in 2001 and was a foodie favourite until it closed late last year. But, fear not, the end of one era proved to be the beginning of a new one, as the two young British chefs who were heading up Verre, Scott Price and Nick Alvis, were given the opportunity to reinvent the space and create their own playground for the palate. And (don't tell Gord) but we think their grub is better than Mr Sweary Pants'.

Once we'd finished our dreamy cauliflower creation we moved eagerly onto our starters. Table 9 has very simple pricing points, every starter costs Dh70, each main is Dh100 and desserts are Dh55-a-pop - and they encourage dining pairs to order four starters, two mains and then share dessert. While every one of the first courses were delicious enough that my dining partner and I found ourselves discussing them at length, it was the Hen's egg, cepes and vinegar caramel that stole the show. The gooey, crispy coated egg was nestled on a bed of fresh cepes mushrooms (porcinis to the Italians), accompanied by a dangerously addictive vinegar sauce, which was so good I batted my companion's hand away so that I could nab for myself the final taste of the lingering flavour pairings.

When choosing our mains, the recycled paper menu was so loaded with options we bickered (happily) over what to order, settling on the Sea bass with winkle - yes, that's snail - and oregano butter. The fish was perfectly prepared and aromatic and the winkles excitingly salty bites. Our second main of Lamb, pressed carrots, turnip and cracked coriander was contemporary yet cockle-warming.

As we rounded off our dinner - with a delectable apple pie, a total classic - the waiter put together doggy bags of retro homemade sweets for later, and then took us through to the kitchen to meet the very down-to-earth chefs, who even shared a recipe or two with us, which we can't imagine rage-prone Ramsay doing. We walked out full, happy and excited about this refreshing addition to Dubai's food scene, clutching our bags of sweets, which yes, were delicious.
Table 9 By Nick And Scott
Location Hilton Dubai Creek, Deira
Tel 04 227 1111

Tasty Trio: Modern British

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This export from London’s trendy Shoreditch has proved that seasonal British food is as popular in Dubai as in its homeland. The buzzing restaurant serves up moreish and homely dishes, using locally sourced ingredients, and we can’t get enough of the Haddock fishcake with poached egg, and the famous Burgers with diet-busting chunky chips are a total must-try. They’re currently also serving a sublime Lemon puddle pudding, but if you want to try it act now, it won’t be on the menu forever!

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Anyone who eats at celeb chef Gary Rhodes’ restaurant is guaranteed to come out singing its praises, due in no small part to the amazing décor which is kitted out in angelic white, with modern splashes of orange and perspex. If you’re an indecisive type when it comes to ordering, you can’t go wrong with the Langoustine and scallops with caviar hollandaise to start and the Loin of lamb with mutton hash for your main. Plus, the Iced peanut parfait is food heaven.

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