“La Dolce Vita” was the name of the game at Dolce&Gabbana, where the fun-loving designing duo recalled the sacred and profane of mundane Italian life, as exposed in director Federico Fellini’s 1960 movie.
The winter collection shown on Sunday at Milan Fashion Week drew inspiration from Byzantine religious art and classic couture. Nino Rota’s slightly disturbing music composed for his friend’s movies provided a soundtrack for the show.
The show opened with a series of dresses in mosaic patterned silk, dripping with encrusted jewels and at times depicting an iconic image of a saint. Some of the outfits came with irreverent mini-bloomers.
To accessorise these already ornate outfits, the models wore a gilded crown, necklaces featuring a large Byzantine cross, heavy pendant earrings and velvet pumps with a thick jewel-encrusted heel.
Then came the couture look. This evoked fancy ladies in demure sling backs and hair pulled back a la Princess Grace, wearing melange white and gray tweed suits with fitted jacket and flared skirt, or simple short sleeved sheath dress.
Next followed a series of black silk dresses interspersed with lace, which could reference either a Sicilian widow’s wardrobe (Sicily is the designing duos trademark inspiration) or sophisticated cocktail hour attire, or even priestly garb.
The same outfits came in papal? white or cardinal? red, both liturgical colours much in vogue at the moment as cardinals prepare to gather in Rome to elect a new pope.
No matter the colour, the outfits were heavily bejewelled, and at times came with the cheeky bloomers.