Stark contrasts

The third edition of Dubai Fashion Week (DFW) opened on Thursday at the Godolphin Ballroom of the Jumeirah Emirates Towers with impressive shows by designers Charu Parashar and Dubai-based Surabhi Kalsi.

Block prints

Parashar's autumn-winter 2008 collection combined a vintage look with contemporary silhouettes to create sexy, sassy dresses, jackets, layered skirts and trousers that were Indian in essence but universal in appeal. The palette of burgundy, ruby and grey was livened up with plenty of gold in the form of gold foil printing 'gota work' and antique gold embroidery.

The designer from Delhi, who is well-known for her unique block prints, had used velvets, brocades, organzas, georgettes, nets and excel, a natural fabric made from wood pulp, for her luxurious collection that attracted many Western buyers.

"This is my first show in Dubai and I am quite overwhelmed by the response, especially by Western buyers and guests. Over the last decade I have been involved in reviving traditional Indian crafts such as block printing by hand and it is wonderful to see that buyers from the region and from the West appreciate my work," said Parashar.

Four stories

Dubai-based designer Surabhi Kalsi presented four stories in her collection titled Inspirations, The Story of Creation. Her show began with the 'story of glory' comprising dresses and skirts in bright orange embellished with gold embroidery and gold leather trims.

Her 1960s-inspired rainbow collection featured black dresses with colourful mirror work, peek-a-boo cutouts and embroidered panels. In her third line, called Poise, she explored the concept of Yin and Yang through black and white outfits ending the show with a pristine white and gold line symbolising 'Peace'.

"I have been part of DFW since the first season and it has helped me to establish my label. I began by designing jellabayas and am now ready to reach out to a wider market with my first Western collection," said Surabhi.

The second show of the day featured contemporary Arab fashion with Emirati Amal Murad's collection of Swarovski crystal-studded shaylas and abayas from her label Redaa and Kuwait-based Lebanese designer Nili Zahar's collection of elaborate evening gowns.

Over the top

The third show of the day included two very different collections by Dubai-based designers. Raakhee Raipanchola's autumn-winter 2008 collection for her label Revisteer, was funky, colourful and quite over the top. Taking inspiration from pop art and sculpture, the young designer had mixed bright yellows, maroons, pinks and gold, psychedelic and floral prints in different colours and features such as big buttons, pleats, buttoned up folds and colourful patchwork to create dresses, skirts and gowns that screamed for attention.

Subtle

In stark contrast, Mille Rostock's collection was understated and sophisticated. The Danish designer had restricted her palette to black and grey with occasional splashes of white to focus attention on her impeccable cuts and subtle details such as pleats on the neck, shoulders or sides of sleek A-line dresses, slanting pleats on elegant fitted short dresses and pleated kangaroo pouch-like pockets on skirts and narrow trousers.

Mille had used velvet, denim, silk and chiffon in this collection that was well received at the recent Copenhagen Fashion Week.

"I now have many regular buyers in the region and abroad. But I always want to be part of Dubai Fashion Week because I am based in Dubai and launched my label here," said Mille.