Ode to India

Set amidst a crystal-studded venue, organisers of the first ever Delhi Couture Week are promising a never-before-seen spectacle with some of the biggest names in the Indian fashion industry in its roster. Judging by the first two shows by Dubai-regular Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Bollywood favourite Manish Malhotra, it looks like they've kept their word.

"Delhi needs to see the higher stable of dress-making. As opposed to pret [ready-to-wear] fashion weeks, where there are so many shows in a single day, the designers get more time to prepare for couture [high-fashion clothing] shows. So creativity is at its highest level," Sunil Sethi, President of Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), said.

"This event brings together the best we have in couture. It is an interesting mix of Sabyasachi from Kolkata with Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla from Mumbai and Delhi greats like JJ Valaya and Gaurav Gupta."

The venue has been designed to add to the feel of grandeur with installations like a cascading chandelier made with Swarovski Elements by Sumant Jayakrishnan and handcrafted fabrics on display by designer duo Mona-Pali.

Designer JJ Valaya, who also retails in Dubai, says the platform will give designers the full liberty to represent the rich heritage of the Indian culture.

‘Not for the masses'

"Our indigenous couture is very grand and should not be confused with the kind of couture seen in the west. It is much less controlled as compared to off-the-rack pret collections and lets you go to another level altogether," said Valaya, known for his royalty-themed creations.

"It is not meant for the masses. Couture is all about elitist fashion which is much more individualised."

Designers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla, Anamika Khanna, Gaurav Gupta, Manav Gangwani, Pallavi Jaikishan, Raakesh Agarvwal, Rina Dhaka, Rohit Bal, Suneet Varma and Varun Bahl are some of the designers who will showcase at the six-day event. The Delhi Couture Week will continue until Saturday.

Sabyasachi Mukherjee

Designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee, known for his love for Indian textiles and heritage, showcased yet another textile-driven collection on the opening day of the Pearls Infrastructure Projects Ltd (PIPL) Delhi Couture Week here on Tuesday, where 80 per cent of the line was khadi based.

The line incorporated intricate craftsmanship from various parts of India — from block printing to kantha (embroidery) work — and used delicate khadi or handspun clothes, natural dyes and a lot of zardozi, another type of embroidery. The main show area had a museum-like feel with antique watches, trunks, bells and vintage photographs adorning the backdrop of the ramp. (tabloid!, however, thinks Mukherjee's set was slightly "inspired" by Dolce & Gabbana's recent menswear outing in Milan where models walked out against a screen backdrop showing scenes of Italian film Baaria).

The models, in typical Sabyasachi style — minimal make-up and a black bindi— gelled with the elaborate designs, layered saris and suits and heavily embroidered blouses.

The line had something for men as well and male models, with long moustaches and broad rimmed spectacles, gave the show an epic feel.

"I have always been a staunch supporter of Indian textiles and this is what I tried to showcase here as well," Sabyasachi said before the show. "The line is very romantic and gives the feel of a museum, something that is period, Victorian or simply antique."

Opening the show with the Indian national anthem, Mukherjee, more popularly known by his first name, said later it was his way of connecting to people and connect with their patriotism.

"It just brings us together as Indians," he said.

Bolywood actreses Vidya Balan and Rani Mukerji were also spotted at the show.

Manish Malhotra

One of Bollywood's favourite designers and the toast of the UAE's sub-continental social set, Manish Malhotra's couture outing in Delhi seemed rather restrained. Long jackets teamed with lehengas (full skirts) and feather masks ushered a Spanish feel whilst the colour palette was decidedly monotoned with a lot of beige, off-whites and black. The designer, who appeared later in a white shirt, jeans and a Gucci belt (why, Manish?), has however been accused of "serving old wine in a new bottle" by some reviewers.

"Malhotra's designs did reflect his traditional flamboyance, but there was nothing extraordinary," said one.

But as is popular with Indian designers, intricate traditional embroideries were the highlight of Malhotra's showcase.

Fight over pearls

After the Delhi High Court on Monday restrained the organisers of the inaugural Delhi Couture Week from using the word "Pearls" — the name of their title sponsor — due to allegations of trademark infringement, the organisers have changed the logo and are supporting it with a disclaimer.The Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) and principal sponsor Pearls Infrastructure Projects Limited (PIPL), were restrained from using the word in the six-day event after a petition was filed by the Little People Educational Society, the owners of the Pearl Academy of Fashion, alleging that the use of the word "Pearl" by the organisers will amount to infringement of its trademark right.

Now, on all display boards, the word "Pearls" has been replaced by Pearls Infrastructure Projects Limited (PIPL), followed by a disclaimer.

"We have followed the court's directive and are using the full name of our sponsors. Apart from that, there will also be a disclaimer saying that the event has no association with the fashion school," FDCI president Sunil Sethi said.

"We have made the required changes and have set the ball rolling and the event is on. There is no change in the schedule," he added.

— Staff Report (With inputs from PTI and IANS)