Designers on the final day of Fashion Forward took us back in time and then blasted us off to the future, to space, as season four of the three-day event came to a close on Monday night at Madinat Jumeirah in Dubai. Kicking off with Lebanese designer Bashar Assaf, inspired by all things ethereal, the day took a nostalgic turn with designers Ava and Madiyah Al Sharqi, who both brought some old-world charm with a modern twist on the catwalk. Then, as has become tradition, Dubai favourite Furne One wowed and then surprised all his fans, this time with an all-white collection themed around an alien abduction.
Madiyah Al Sharqi
One indicator that your label is making the right noises is when fashion influencers start noticing you. And that’s exactly what happened to this shaikha in Paris recently, who had none other than Kim Kardashian seeking her out at her showcase on the sidelines of Fashion Week.
But anyone who saw Al Sharqi’s latest collection on Monday would hardly be surprised. Taking on a ’70s vibe, the collection was feminine and elegant, playing with form and lots of layers. There were subtle touches of crocheted lace, many of them forming part of a top and then evolving into capes as the models turned. The colours were restrained as always, think peaches and khakis, but added to the mood of the regal collection.
Al Sharqi said later she now wants to go international. With such an accomplished collection, she’s more than ready.
Hashe
For her first ready-to-wear line, Dubai-raised designer Ava Hashemi took inspiration from the city’s architecture, showing off what one could call an extension of her accessories line she started in 2010 when she was just 19.
Playing with shapes and volumes, the collection, called Reflection, was inspired by Venetian mirrors. You could see them on many of the looks, shimmering and reflecting, as Hashemi sent out looks in bright colours, all of them retaining that old-world charm she’s come to be known for.
Dima Ayad
A Fashion Forward regular, Lebanese designer Dima Ayad’s timeless collection had an ’80s vibe but with a modern twist. She deliberately played it safe with her looks, ensuring that every piece was ready for the shop shelf and wearable. There were pastels and wild prints that wouldn’t look out of place with the Ewings, the wealthy family of the TV show Dallas.
Ceremony
Emirati designer Farha S is quite a tease. She sent out her models in a range of pale nudes and then, suddenly, upped the ante. There were electric blues, flashy reds and wild prints, all reflecting her inspiration: the sea. For summer, the living is easy and the shapes were flowy and girly as Farha introduced her signature touch of blending traditional Middle Eastern patterns with very modern cuts and lines. Just into her third collection, she still has a long way to go, but she’s definitely in the right direction.
Bashar Assaf
Beirut-based designer Bashar Assaf opened the last day of Fashion Forward Season Four with his second solo show (he has previously presented at FFWD under the Starch Foundation). Between separates and dresses, a relaxed look resonated throughout the collection with a summery palette of aqua and light turquoise dominating, well punctuated with bespoke prints inspired by rocks and plastic playing with water. From the fabrics to the construction — all done in Beirut — the designer made a strong case for the potential of Middle East’s fashion industry. What he describes as ethereal (“I looked back to all things I found ethereal over the past year”) is in fact a completely wearable collection that should do well next summer. The designer does need to better his fit though. It would have been good — but this pertains to most shows at FFWD and at hindsight seems like an opportunity missed for all concerned — had the designer collaborated with the accessory designers showcasing in The Garden to better present his concept.
Asudari
It was hard not to love Lamia Asudari’s presentation. The collection was crisp, well-edited, most importantly well-thought-of and well-finished. This season, the Central Saint Martin’s graduate explored the fashion stable — a bow — deconstructing it to create a stunning array of prints and appliques that in hands less adept would have seemed jarring. Playing with a deep colour pattern of maroons and purple, the designer presented a collection full of separates that not only make better business sense in terms of sales, but in allowing the consumers to edit the look to their mood. The prints were well balanced on each garment, in proportion to the piece and when layers with a mesh of appliqued bows, made the look instantly playful. “I’ve designed for that girl who has embraced her femininity, is a girlie-girl with an edge,” said the designer who retails in Saudia Arabia. For me, the Asudari show was more than just a fashion presentation. What we are looking at is a strong Middle Eastern brand laying its roots for future success as every element of presentation — right down to the professionally managed post-show interview session — was what we have come to expect from international presentations. As Lamia told me, she starts working on the mood boards for the next season immediately after she presents the show at hand. It is that level of dedication to her metier that delivers a show of the highest standards.
Amato
Filipino designer Furne One has made it a tradition to close Fashion Forward, make it the most well-attended show and then add lots and lots of drama — right from the seating arrangement to the catwalk. He showed a teaser of his collection at New York Fashion Week, which I attended, but I was pleasantly surprised to see he’d completely transformed most of the looks, diminishing almost any trace of similarity with the New York show, save for the palette: all white.
“My last collection was so colourful, this time I wanted to tone it down. I wanted it to be emotionless but full of emotion,” he told me backstage.
He not only has a flair for theatrics but also for quotable quotes, evidently.
Based around an alien abduction, One again played with wild accessories and mixed rich textures. The limited colour choice didn’t curb his creativity as the emphasis, as always, was on luxurious detailing and embellishments. Lace mixed with satin as the tone-on-tone collage finished off with matte Swarovski crystals came to life in glorious form. If an abduction can look this glamorous, we’d love to be taken, now.
— Pratyush Sarup edits the design site www.designcarrot.net. You can follow the site on twitter @DesignCarrot.
