Say what you will about disco, the 1970s were a good time for American fashion. It's when New York really carved its niche as the sportswear capital of the world.
And now, for spring 2011, designers, are reclaiming the look as their own at New York Fashion Week.
Marc Jacobs led the pack with models in frizzed-out hair, jumpsuits, hot pants, culottes and striped knits. But he's not the only one to embrace the billowy shapes, scarf-tied tops, tunics, crafty macrame looks and long, wide-legged trousers of that era.
Badgley Mischka, Rachel Roy and Elie Tahari embraced a '70s muse on Tuesday. Halston and Diane Von Fürstenberg always have a touch of '70s glam, and their spring 2011 collections were no different.
If it feels like decades whiplash, you may be right. Autumn is the time for the '50s polished lady, and it wasn't so long ago that fashion was embracing the '80s.
But the '70s have been creeping forward, too. Wide-leg pants hitting stores for autumn will go looser and easier for spring.
Halston
The city-loving night owl that has long defined the Halston customer probably doesn't get out into the garden much, so designer Marios Schwab gave her a few reminders of what it might be like out there: light, pretty, soft.
But this was no garden party, either. Halston is built on easy, sexy chic of the '70s kind, and Schwab embraces that while adding his own touches of modernity.
A black jersey dress, for example, had a gold snakelike halter top, and a two-tone, one-shoulder gown had a burnout effect in the beading. All it took from a white, high-neck georgette dress to become a sexy number were split sleeves and a gold waistband, and an ivory-pink jersey dress was gathered at the bottom, as if the model had just tacked up a longer gown.
Rachel Roy
In the 24/7 cycle that so many women live, they dress up, they dress down; they like colour, they want neutrals. Designer Rachel Roy aimed to address all those needs with her spring collection.
For a cool daytime look, a model wore a midnight-blue bustier over a floral button-down shirt — with an embellished collar for extra oomph — and linen cropped trousers. It sounds like a high-fashion look, but it would likely work for many shapes and lifestyles.
The same could be said for the azure-coloured jacket worn with a maroon polo and aqua tie-bottom cargo pant.
She was particularly drawn to a neutral sandy shade that she dubbed "Band-Aid".
Diesel Black Gold
Flowing rock goddess dresses and tomboy suede jackets in neutral khaki, rich browns and camel were set against the sunny New York City skyline for the earthy Diesel Black Gold presentation.
Leaf motifs more suited to autumn popped up on tailored leather jackets with crosshatched seams, and in fringe overlay on short dresses and flowing longer versions topped with tight, edgy leather bodices anchored by braided straps.
Diesel called the collection an ode to the wild creativity of the West Coast arts and crafts movement, the free spirit of rock festivals and the sun-drenched landscapes of California, as seen through the eyes of designer Sophia Kokosalaki.
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs knows his clientele and offered up some colourful and fun, flirty styles for his secondary line.
His show opened with a model wearing a sweet striped long dress that hit below the knee. A grey long dress with a grey top was paired with yellow wedges. There was a striped jumpsuit with beige wedges. A long red skirt was paired with a black, red and grey striped top.
A yellow long dress had a 1940s feel to it. Another striking look was a parachuter's jumpsuit, paired with beige platforms. A pretty red and white striped long dress had bows on the shoulders. It was worn with a blue and white bag.
Tracy Reese
Tracy Reese likes her catwalk to be a happy place and she consistently turns out clothes that suit that mood.
For the spring collection, she used words like "mellow" and "groovy" to describe the prevailing look.
A black halter maxi dress, a waves-and-orchid print peasant blouse and the poncho worn over a tie-neck blouse and Bermudas all channelled the relaxed style of a woman unconcerned about her BlackBerry or iPhone — if she even owns one or knows what it is.
But the inspiration here wasn't sheltered or old-fashioned, either: While Reese's muse fully embraces the season's relaxed silhouettes — right down to the floppy hats — she also wears leather bra tops and a perforated halter dress.
But this was no garden party, either. Halston is built on easy, sexy chic of the ’70s kind, and Schwab embraces that while adding his own touches of modernity Image Credit: AP
