This is the sweetest summer yet in the world of make-up. Indulge in some guilt-free candy-coloured cosmetics for eyes, lips, cheeks and nails. Think of pop queen Katy Perry and her pink hair, Fifties-inspired fashion advertising campaigns from Prada and Mulberry and YSL’s Candy Face make-up collection. This is about looking fresh, youthful and healthy and is not a throwback to over-the-top Sixties-style eyeshadow or frosted pink lips à la the Eighties. We asked four professional make-up artists to talk us through how to wear candy colours this season, without looking like a macaroon...
THE EYES HAVE IT
Make-up artist Daniel Sandler (www.danielsandler.com) has been working professionally for more than 20 years with magazines, celebrities, and personal clients. He has his own range of make-up, Daniel Sandler Professional Finish Makeup, which is available at www.feelunique.com – and the good news is that the website ships worldwide.
Are there any rules about wearing candy shades on eyes?
“Candy-coloured make-up comes in all sorts of shades, but if you are going for a pastel palette there are some things to look out for – if you’re blonde, gently add eyeliner pencil to your upper and lower lash lines to give definition. Plus everyone, no matter what their hair or skin colour, should consider mixing pastel eye colours with a fresh pink shade on cheeks and lips. It has to have oomph to counteract the pastel.”
Wear: l Daniel Sandler Watercolour Crème Rouge Blusher in Hot Pink (available from www.feelunique.com)
What are the dos and don’ts of candy eye make-up?
“Candy shades can wash out the eyes, especially if yours are pale, so it’s best to put a bit of emphasis around the lash line to make them look bigger and brighter. But if you are experimenting with a pastel-candy look then be brave and wear enough to show up. I prefer to contrast eyeshadow colours to eye colour: So those with blue eyes can wear green or lilac shadows and those with green eyes can wear blue or lilac. Brown eyes can wear any shade on lids. Be aware that if you wear pale pink pastel on eyes and have pale skin it can look like you have sore eyelids – only those with a darker skin tone suit this look.”
Wear: l 3 Custom Color Pan Am Collection Eye shadows in Cool Sky (pastel blue), Warm Lilac (pastel purple) and Cool Celery (pastel green) (these are all available from www.cultbeauty.co.uk, which ships worldwide)
If you wear pastel colours on the lips what should you use on your eyes?
“Depending on your features I suggest that you have some definition and colour on your eyes and cheeks to contrast with the soft lips. Unless you have super-thick eyelashes you will still need mascara and darker shades through the eye socket to balance with the lighter lip.”
Wear: l Daniel Sandler Dimensional Shadow in Luminous Lilac l Daniel Sandler Satin Shadow in Seaspray (both available from www.feelunique.com)
Any particular eyeshadows, other than from your own range, that you recommend?
“I adore the Bourjois Little Round Pot collection of pastel eyeshadows as they are so soft and wearable, but with enough pigment that you can see the shade on your eyelid – I always carry them around in my make-up kit and have used them on various celebrities. (Bourjois products are available from Faces, Dubai, see www.faces-me.com).”
Are there any other key trends for eyes this summer that we should know about?
“The strong eyeliner effect in liquid or pencil and opaque or shimmery shades is very popular. It is always easier to use pencil eyeliner though as you can apply as little or as much as you like. I love false eyelashes and they are still on trend, but I like them when they look natural and just enhance natural lashes. If you want a full doe-eyed look then the best way is to get eyelash extensions or get eyelashes permed and tinted (If you visit the UK and London then the best person to go to is Sue Marsh in Knightsbridge, who works from the basement of the Cosmetics a la Carte shop in Motcomb Street).”
Wear: l The Body Shop Liquid Eyeliner in Black or Brown
and The Body Shop Carbon Eye Definer in Blue (The Body Shop products are available from The Dubai Mall, see
International celebrity and fashion make-up artist Kenneth Soh studied in Singapore and has worked across Asia and the Middle East – some of his clients have included singer Alexandra Burke, actor Hugh Laurie and magazines such as Vogue UK and Vogue Nippon. He also blogs about beauty:
Are there any rules about wearing pastel blusher shades on the cheeks?
“I would opt for liquid or cream pastel blusher, not powder, as it’s best to keep skin sheer and dewy. I quite like clashing skin tone with colours to balance the skin. So if your skin has a yellow undertone then wear pale pink to neutralise the yellow in your skin.”
Wear: l Becca Beach Tint in Peach (available from
www.cultbeauty.co.uk, which ships worldwide)
If you wear pastel colours on the eyes and lips then what should you do on your cheeks?
“When wearing pastels on your eyes and/or your lips I would never go for a pastel blush as well. Instead, wear bronzer, and keep skin looking slightly dewy and bronzed with tinted moisturiser. Pastels by nature can look powdery so don’t wear them all over your face.”
Wear: l Chanel Moisturizing Bronzing Powder (Chanel is available at The Dubai Mall www.chanel.com)
What are the dos and don’ts when wearing blusher?
“Don’t take blusher too far inwards towards the nose, plus I try to avoid taking blusher in past the iris of the eyes as it can look like you are having a hot flush.”
Wear: l New CID Cosmetics I-Blush Light Up Blusher
& Highlighter Compact (available from www.lookfantastic.com, which ships worldwide
Any particular blushers you recommend?
“I love the Dior Diorskin Rosy Glow in Petal (available from Sephora in The Dubai Mall) and Chanel Soft Glow Blush (available from The Dubai Mall). Both are pastel candy pinks but have an ability to mould to all skin tones. I think for blusher it is best to always go for a brighter shade than you would think and then use
a fluffy brush to apply.”
Any there any other key trends for blushers this summer that we should know about?
“There was a trend to wear blush slightly lower on your face during the Fashion Weeks in London, New York, Milan and Paris, almost like a Modigliani painting – but on real people as opposed to models, this is a very hard look and most unflattering. I still believe in choosing blusher to suit an individual person. I also love the trend for layering liquid, cream and or powder blushers to create long lasting finishes.”
Wear: l Bobbi Brown Shimmer Brick Compact in Nectar (available from The Dubai Mall and Dubai Marina Mall)
International make-up artist Nadira V Persaud has more than 18 years of experience working for magazines, celebrities and fashion and beauty clients around the world – see www.nadiramakeup.com or find her blogging at www.nadiramakeup.blogspot.co.uk. She has also trained many make-up artists in the UAE.
Are there any rules about wearing pastel shades on lips?
“Everyone can wear candy colours and pastel shades in my view, although as a general rule cool skin tones are best to avoid ‘bluey’ lip colours so as not to appear ‘deathly’ – instead choose hues with peachy undertones. For warmer and dark skin complexions try a pastel shade that is brighter and packs a punch so as not to appear pallid.”
Wear: l Lancôme Rouge in Love High Potency Lip Color in Violette Coquette (available from Harvey Nichols at Mall of the Emirates)
If you wear pastel colours on your eyes and cheeks then what should you do with the lips?
“If you’ve already embraced the pastel trend for eyes, then that doesn’t mean you have to avoid pastel lips altogether and opt for nudes only. You can choose pale pink lips to wear with delicate lilacs or shimmery fern green eyeshadows.”
Wear: l Lily Lolo Mineral Cosmetics Natural Lipstick in French Flirt (available from www.lilylolo.co.uk which ships worldwide) and l Laqa & Co Fat Lip Pencil in Wolfman and Lambchop (available from wwwpowderrooms.com, which ships worldwide, and from Backstage, Beach Road, Dubai)
What are the dos and don’ts when wearing colour on the lips?
“Pink lips can brighten up complexions and teeth; a true, dense pink lip shade always makes teeth appear whiter rather than a shimmery lipstick or lipgloss in icy pink. Keep lips in tip-top shape by applying pastel lips shades with a lip brush, especially matte colours that can bleed. For maximum impact and a more precise lip shape seal the outer lip line with a touch of foundation or concealer on a flat eyeliner brush.”
Wear: l Make Up For Ever Eyeliner Brush On Eye Brush (available at Sephora and www.makeupforever.com)
Any particular lip colours you recommend?
“I like softer options such as Sisley Paris Phyto-Lip Shine in Sheer Peach, which adds a sheer tint. I also rate Dior Addict Ultra-Gloss in Rouge Croisière for high shine and a rosy pout.” (Both available from Saks Fifth Avenue in Dubai.)
Any there any other key trends for lips this summer that we should know about?
“There is a brand called OCC Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics, which has paved the way for creative blocks of lip colour with its Lip Tars – they are an opaque liquid lipstick that applies like a gloss but dries with a satin finish. For the pastel trend opt for Lip Tar in Digitalis, a lilac shade.”
Wear: l OCC Lip Tars (available from www.cocktailcosmetics.co.uk)
Accomplished international make-up artist and tutor Simone Gannon works throughout the UAE and other areas in the Middle East on magazines, for films and for fashion clients. She is currently based in Bahrain. See www.simonegannon.com
What are the most on-trend candy or pastel nail colours for this summer?
“There are so many fabulous shades available and thankfully there’s one to flatter every skin tone. The standouts for me would have to be pale lavender, turquoise baby blue and the delicious ice-cream pink that Chanel showcased at their recent couture show.”
Wear: l Chanel Nail Colours in Frisson, Attraction and Coco Blue, (available at Chanel, The Dubai Mall)
Do you have a favourite pastel nail colour you wear in summer and why?
“Yes! I have two actually. I love Dior Vernis Saint Tropez Nail Lacquer (available from The Dubai Mall), as it is my go-to for summer evening parties. It is a beautiful azure blue that looks fabulous with a light tan and some funky accessories. And in the daytime I’m quite predictable and regularly reach for OPI Hong Kong Collection Lucky Lavender (available from Nazih in Etihad Mall Outlet, Dubai), a fabulous pale shade that’s smart enough for the day job but not overly obvious either.”
Do your recommend different finishes for different occasions? So perhaps some sparkle for evening or a matte for day?
“I think the candy and pastel trend is fresh and fun and should be worn whenever the mood takes you, no matter what the event.”
Wear: l Butter London Nail Polish in Cheeky Chops, Trout Pout and Teddy Girl (available from www.powderrooms.com, which ships worldwide)
Should your lipstick match your nail polish as was fashionable in the Sixties?
“Yes and no! Obviously no one is going to look good with a pastel turquoise lip, but ice-cream pink and pale peach lip shades can look utterly fabulous and super cute when matched with your nail shade. Just be sure you’re not wearing the same outfit colour though or you might look like a walking ice-cream parlour…”
Wear: l Essie Nail Polish in Sugar Daddy (available from www.cultbeauty.co.uk, which ships worldwide)