InFocus | Fine Jewellery Watches
No more simple time machines
A watch is no longer expected to simply tell the time. Today's watches can do many tasks, from counting calories to storing phone numbers and even making calculations.
- By Abigail Mathias, Staff Writer
- Published: 00:00 September 23, 2006
- A truly masculine feeling... the Santos 100 Chronograph from Cartier is powerful, massive, extravagant and yet elegant and athletic.
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Innovation has become the industry buzzword as consumers demand new features in watches.
A watch is no longer expected to simply tell the time. Today's watches can do many tasks, from counting calories to storing phone numbers and even making calculations.
Louis Cartier discovered enamel on one of his journeys to Russia in the late 19th century, when the goldsmith Faberge was the uncontested master of this technique. Cartier began to use enamel for his creations, playing with colour by introducing bold contrasts such as blue and green with turquoise.
Sophisticated approach
Through the years Cartier watch making has preserved traditional know-how coupled with innovative technology. With each new creation, the company has grown more sophisticated in its approach, combining enamel with gold or diamonds lending a modern look with each design.
Patrick Normand, Managing Director, Cartier Middle East, says, "The recent Santos 100 Chronograph is powerful, massive, extravagant and yet elegant and athletic. The watch has a screw bezel, octagonal crown, angled buttons, three counters for hours, minutes and seconds, date function, luminescent sword-shaped hands - and a score of details that give this total-sports interpretation of the Santos 100 watch a truly masculine feel. The watch has a Cartier 8630 calibre self-winding mechanical movement."
It is available in three varieties, 18k yellow gold, a combination of 18k yellow gold and steel, and plain steel.
Abraham Koshy, General Manager, Rivoli Group, says, "The UAE retail market is dynamic and sophisticated as are its consumers. Thus, the market eagerly accepts new styles and designs and consumers are well informed of global trends."
The Rivoli Group's stylish Blancpain Le Brassus collection recently introduced a perpetual calendar as well as a second time zone indication. Cased in platinum with a richly coloured Havana brown dial, this special limited edition - restricted to 150 - is accompanied by an exclusively created cigar cutter modelled after an antique watchmaking tool. Marketed as a collector's item and named the ‘Blancpain Quantieme Perpétuel GMT Havana' in honour of the remarkably rich colour of its dial, this special edition pays homage to Blancpain's devotion to refinement and the art of luxurious living.
Perpetual calendar
In the eyes of connoisseurs, the perpetual calendar is recognised as one of Blancpain's specialities, which Blancpain is devoted to perfecting and miniaturising in its Le Brassus workshops.
The company recently achieved a world record by developing the thinnest perpetual calendar movement (a mere 2.91mm thick).
In 2005 Blancpain presented its patented system of under lug correctors, developed entirely in its workshops.
Instead of placing correctors on the side of the watch where they are visible when the watch is worn, the indications of date, day of week, month, leap year and moon phase of the perpetual calendar may be adjusted by means of buttons that have been integrated into the lugs of the watch and which may be changed with a simple push of a finger.
This constitutes a double advantage - an improvement in the aesthetics of the watch as well as in its ease of use.
Novel aspect
Blancpain Quantieme Perpétuel GMT Havana, the 312-piece movement, brings together two aspects of watch features - a perpetual calendar and a second time zone. The dial indicates date at the three o'clock position, day of the week at nine, the month at 12 - all the while keeping track of the variable length of the months, including the variations of leap years. The watch is water-resistant to a depth of 100 metres thanks to the sophisticated construction of its correctors.
Cartier has also introduced innovation in its enamel and marquetry watches. "These watches are a true testament to the art of watchmaking, representing excellent craftsmanship and savoir-faire. Four new enamel watches include the Santos 100, the Pasha de Cartier 32mm in 18k white gold, the Pasha de Cartier 42mm in 18k yellow gold and the tortue in 18k yellow gold," says Normand.
The Rivoli Group's Glashütte range is also presenting a new generation of sports watches this year. "The basic concept was to create a multi-functionally convenient yet sporty timekeeper. The first two variations of this expressive collection are the sport evolution chronograph and the sport evolution panorama date," says Koshy. "The flawlessly manufactured four-element link bracelet perfectly fits the circumference of the wrist. The basic concept here was to create a bracelet that would make it possible for the wearer to adjust the individual length of the bracelet directly on the wrist. This is made possible by an innovative, patented closing and adjusting mechanism. This double security mechanism, fitted with two buttons located on the sides, prevents the clasp from opening accidentally."
Another design feature is a finely adjustable clasp that can be regulated when worn.
"Depending on the type of sports activity one engages in the circumference of the wrist can expand, making the watch too tight on the wrist. The clasp is outfitted with an integrated double ‘G' logo that functions both as the clasp's button and the activator for the fine adjustment mechanism. The band can be adjusted a total of eight millimetres in seven steps, thus making it supremely comfortable," says Koshy.
Today's sports watches are built to withstand extremes, including the force of gravity. The Zenith range recently launched a collection of sports watches known as ‘Defy'.
"An unusual design, avant-garde technology and a unique style make this watch truly a revolution in both aesthetic and mechanical design," says Koshy. A combination of innovative materials equips these timepieces with a movement and a case intended for use under extreme conditions. Unbreakable, Defy watches are able to withstand high temperatures and pressure, and are the result of three years of research and development.
Water-resistant to 1,000 metres, the case is made entirely of black titanium, with a satin finish bezel and case band, with polished screw heads. A slightly raised helium valve allows for decompression under extreme conditions. Carbon fibre inserts make the push buttons special, multi-layered dials combining honeycomb aluminium, shock-resistant Hesalite and carbon fibre. The bracelets blend brushed stainless steel and composite materials reinforced by Kevlar lateral inserts.
While these features may sound too technical for some, "these watches are designed with a singular philosophy - to perform, to resist and to stun," says Koshy.
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