From pearls to precious stones

Elaborate and heavy, traditional Arab jewellery comprises mainly gold and pearls.

Like millions of others across the world, UAE women have a passionate relationship with jewellery. They love traditional gold pieces and also favour more contemporary designs studded with diamonds, rubies and other precious and semi-precious stones.

"We are an expressive people who have a deep connection with our cultural beliefs and emotions. We love colours and beautiful things, especially jewellery that has clean lines and fine detailing. UAE women love ornaments that accentuate their personalities and make them the cynosure of attention. Weddings, social and intimate gatherings with friends and family, among other events, are prime occasions where women display their exquisite and unique jewellery," says Azhar Al Bayati, a national jewellery designer who's won two World Gold Council awards for her creative designs.

"Our traditional jewellery comprises predominantly gold and pearls that were fished out of the local waters. Gold is a sign of purity and wealth in the Arab world. Pearls continue to hold a cherished place in ornaments, in a throwback to the old days when pearl-diving was the major occupation and adorning themselves with pearls was something that women in the UAE were proud of," says Sarah Rashid Belhasa, Jewellery Designer, Glitter & Glow, and Vice Chairperson, Saif Belhasa Group.

Bayati says that traditional gold pieces, which are elaborate and heavy, are preferred especially during weddings, the 'henna' night in particular. Women wear jewellery such as tasah, which adorns head and hair, murtasaha (a chain), khawatem (rings), merria (necklace), khaf (a decorative ornament for the hand) and heyool (bangles/bracelets).

Belhasa says that the other ornaments worn include haqab (worn around the waist like a belt), shagab (earrings) and shawahed (rings worn on the index finger).

"However, modern UAE women have started wearing sleek and detailed diamond jewellery based on European trends on the wedding day especially in the form of tiaras, necklaces and bracelets," says Bayati, whose designs have different cultural influences and employs stones such as diamonds, tourmaline, citrine, peridot, garnets and turquoise in her jewellery.

National women are increasingly favouring metals such as platinum, white gold and diamonds and other gems, says Belhasa. Costume jewellery too is gaining ground and is preferred for daily, casual wear and sometimes on formal occasions.

Jewellery stores across the UAE also manufacture and sell exclusive traditional and contemporary jewellery. Damas is among them. The company's deputy managing director, Tamjid Abdullah, won the prestigious De Beers award in 2000 for a diamond burqua he designed.

"Damas' Al Mantourah range of jewellery features traditional UAE designs. The collection is a 21k brand made with a three-colour finish (black, white and gold rhodium) in various combinations and with genuine gemstones. Our in-house brands, such as Farasha and Aya, also have designs that cater to women looking for traditional Arab jewellery," says Samit Bhatta, General Manager - Sales and Marketing, Damas.

The highlight of Aya is a crystal with inscriptions from the Quran on it. The crystal is framed in white or yellow gold pendants and is available with or without diamonds.