The Directory: H&M’s pedal power-dressing

Bicycles might not be as ubiquitous in this part of the world (let’s blame the heat) but looks like they’ve been taking the fashion world by storm. So much so, that Louis Vuitton recently launched a collection inspired by them. And now, high street brand H&M has jumped into the bandwagon with the launch of a capsule men’s collection last week. Designed by H&M and tested by Brick Lane Bikes, a UK based cycling store, the collection features everything from water repellent rider jackets to articulated blazers and vintage inspired bike jerseys.

The Swedish label wants to big up its green credentials with the collection made entirely of sustainable materials.

The Directory spoke to Feya Buchwald, the founder of Brick Lane Bikes, and Petter Klusell, the designer at H&M about the collaboration.

Petter Klussel

Q: Why has H&M decided to come out with a line of cycling clothes?

A: When you are a fashion designer, it’s important to think about not just the trends, but also how men are living their lives today. Wherever you go in the world, you see more and more men riding bikes in the cities, and yet most wearing either their usual clothes, or performance pieces they can’t wear off the bike. We thought it would be interesting to bring the two together, and make a collection that’s both stylish and functional for cyclists.

Q: How have you combined fashion and utility in this collection?

A: The great thing about functional detailing is that it often also looks really good. On pieces like the blazer, the box-pleats in the back shoulder, the articulated arms and the storm collar all look great as details, and they also serve an important function. By working with BLB and talking with them about the needs of cyclists, we knew which functional elements were important to use in this collection.

Q: Tell us about the H&M design process.

A: We started designing the collection after we had met with Feya and Jan at Brick Lane Bikes in London, and talked with them about what a cyclist needs from their garments. We then came back to Stockholm and designed the collection, and as soon as we had samples, we sent them to Brick Lane Bikes so they could test them on the streets of London. Their suggestions were crucial, sending us videos to show us what they meant about the fit and movement in each of the garments. With those adjustments made, we had the final collection. It was a great way of working.

Q: Is there a particular customer you have in mind when you design?

A: At H&M we believe in letting people find their own personal style, and so when we’re designing we’re thinking about giving men the best range of pieces from which they can make their own look. What’s great about this collection is that it approaches style from a completely different direction, focusing on function to create pieces that will also work when you’re off your bike.

Q: Why is there a social shift towards cycling?

A: I’ve been cycling in cities all of my adult life, including when I was studying in London, so I’ve been aware of the shift towards cycling these past few years. Cycling enhances my enjoyment of the city that I live in, and gives me a sense of freedom. I think the same is true for a growing number of men, who really value cycling, and the way it connects them to the city, wherever it is in the world.

Q: Are there plans for other collaborations in the future?

A: The collaboration with Brick Lane Bikes is a one-off special collaboration, and as a design team we’ve learned so much from it. The great thing about working at H&M is that you never know who the next collaboration will be with. I’m excited to find out.

Q: Talk us through the sustainable part of the collection.

A: Sustainability is part of our daily conversation at H&M, and cycling is an enviromentally responsible activity, so it was natural for us to want to make this collaboration with Brick Lane Bikes more sustainable. We have worked with materials such as organic cotton and recycled polyester, as well as finding hi-tech treatments such as Bionic Finish Eco, an ecological water-repellent textile which is used in our shell jacket. It was an extra challenge to make the collection more sustainable, one which made the final results even more satisfying.

Feya Buchwald

Q: Explain the cultural shift — why are there more people cycling now?

A: There are many reasons why cycling is becoming so popular worldwide. There’s been a huge change in the way that people work, which means that we are no longer restricted to the office. Today, someone can run a company using the laptop they carry in their rucksack on a bike, going to meetings in cafes rather than a boardroom. People who still work in offices are finding their bike gives them more freedom in their commute, especially because so many cities are becoming increasingly bike friendly. It’s also an environmentally friendly way of travelling, with each bike journey made meaning there’s one less by car or public transport.

Q: What’s the demographic that favours this mode of transport?

A: It’s a wide demographic, and it’s a growing one, because so many young people are taking to their bikes. Cycling in the city is natural to them, and is part of their social lives too. It’s exciting that cycling and the fixie bike scene is becoming such an important part of the way people live their lives in the city.

Q: Cycling has been an inspiration for fashion and artists in the past including Louis Vuitton. What is the H&M collaboration all about?

A: The collaboration is about making something both stylish and functional for cyclists to wear on their bikes. Urban cyclists tend to wear their regular clothes on their bike, which means they don’t have the right flexibility and movement when they are cycling. The collection is full of pieces that look great off the bike, but which will give you a more comfortable and enjoyable ride when you are on it.

Q: What are the inspirations for the collections?

A: When the H&M team first visited our shop, they were so excited to see all of the colourful bikes and components that we have everywhere, as we make bikes right on the shop floor. This was a big inspiration to the collection, as were classic cycling styles, since the requirements of cyclists in terms of fit and function haven’t changed that much through the years. Our main role in the collaboration was to test every garment, to make sure they really worked on the city streets. It’s great to see the functional elements used not just as a decorative detail, but to create pieces that really work.

Q: Is the collection mainly limited to luxe sportswear?

A: Not at all - the collection is wearable and affordable, for all men who like to look good when they’re riding their bike. If you came to visit us in the store any day of the week, you’ll find everyone in there wearing the chinos from the collection. All the men are obsessed with them, and how they work for them both on the bike and in their everyday lives.